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How to Calibrate Extruder E-Step on your 3D Printer – The easy way.

Your 3D printer is only as good as it is calibrated.

How to calibrate E-Step on a 3D printer? By default if you’re using an Ender 3 the values going to be 93. But if you’re starting to see any type of over or under extrusion issues or if you swap out parts like hot end nozzle or changing over to direct drive from a bowden tube. Things like that will affect the oem calibration and I believe it’s important that you re-calibrate your 3d printer.  

Formula to calibrate extruder  e-steps on 3D printer:

  • (Input length) x (Current E-step number) = Results 
  • (Results) / (Your measuring length) =  New e-step number To replace current e-step number on your 3D printer.

For example: Stock Ender 3 pro setting is 93 (current e-step) over extruding example

  • (130mm) x (93) = 12,090
  • 12,090 / (Ex: 135) =  89.55 New e-step number To replace current e-step number.

Note: The longer the distance you measure the more accurate calibration will be.  We went with 130 mm So we can get the most use out of the standard 6 inch caliper.

Before we begin with the calibration process you want to make sure all bolts are tightened correctly and all belts tensioned properly on your 3d printer.

So here’s the easy way of calibrating E-steps on your 3D printer.

  1. Turn on your 3D printer,  then navigate to nozzle temperature and set it to a temperature you normally print at. Typically 215 degrees Celsius for PLA filament.
  2. With a fine tip permanent marker mark 130 mm set point from the extruder base Where filament enters then make another Mark at 150 mm.
  3. Next, navigate you 3D printer to prepare ->  move axis -> extruder ->  “move 1mm”  enter 130mm, and feed it through your system. (See Pictures) select move axis ->  select extruder -> select “move 1mm”  enter 130mm, then push on knob for OK.
  4. How to measure how much filament actually dispensed:
    1. If over extruded filament would go past the first set point marking  where you can’t see it. 
      1. To calculate the actual distance extruded, measure back  from the 150mm set point to the  extruder base where filament enters. 
      2. Then use formula for example 150mm – (10mm measure distance from the step above) = 140mm would be actual extruded distance. 
    2. If under extruded filament you would still see both set marks.
      1. To calculate the actual distance extruded, measure back  from the 150mm set point to the  extruder base where filament enters. 
      2. Then use formula for example 150mm – (50mm measure distance from the step above) = 100mm would be actual extruded distance. 
  5. Now that you have found the actual distance your 3D printer extruder use the formula below to calculate e-steps
    1. Formula to calibrate e steps on 3D printer:
      1. (Input length) x (Current E-step number) = Results 
      2. (Results) / (Your measuring length) =  New e-step number To replace current e-step number on your 3D printer. select Steps/mm enter new value here to override the old value (in my case 97.5)Store setting so they do not get lost when printer is powered down.
  6. Repeat the first step and confirm that filament came to a stop at the first set marketing at 130 mm otherwise, repeat this process as many times as needed to get the  desired  precision. Be sure to store new settings at store memory.

Congratulations!  you have successfully calibrated extruder e-steps.  

I hope that this post saved you a lot of headache,  time,  and filament. If you found this content useful please share with others and subscribe so you  don’t miss out on my latest post. Please comment below and share with us your 3D printing experience.

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Must Know This for 3D Printing Flexible TPU

Ender 3 pro TPU profile for simplify3d attached below:

As you probably already know that Thermoplastic Polyurethane known as TPU filament material in a 3d printing world is a flexible, abrasion resistant thermoplastic.

3D Printing TPU has become widely available but getting your first successful flexible print may be harder than you think. 

Below I will go over some of the most frustrating issues that I have encountered and bring you the solution so you don’t waste your filament on trials and can go straight to the project.

Here is a list of issues I have encountered when printing TPU:

  • Filament would curl up into a spaghetti at the drive gear motor.
  • Filament is too much or too little (under extrude or over extrude) 
  • Top cover layer is not “covered” appears like a mesh
  • Layers not sticking together.
  • Part not sticking to the bed and curls up.
  • Finished product looks rough and dull.

Solutions for the issue described above.

Filament would curl up into a spaghetti at the drive gear motor.

TPU Filament Curl up and jam at the gear drive on FDM ender 3 pro 3d printer

So, if you have only experienced 3d printing with hard plastic materials like PLA then you may never have encountered the issue of filament curling at the drive gearmotor.  TPU however is very different from any hard materials.  

The reason for the loop curl at the drive gear motor is – the extruder head not being hot enough.  The typical temperature setting for for the extruder head when printing TPU is 230*C. 

You can also find the recommended temperature setting on the spool of filament for that specific brand that you are working with. 

From my experience, when switching brands of filament additional tuning may be required for that specific 3d printer.  

When the extruder head temperature is too low then the filament does not melt fast enough while the drive gear motor is pushing the soft filament into the tube resulting in a jam at the gear motor looking like a spaghetti loop. 

This is similar to if you were to take a rope and try to guide it through the pipe upwards by pushing on the back end of the rope from below.

What to do if the temperature setting is set at the recommended extruder head temperature and still get the jam on the filament drive gear motor?

The common result of this may be a clog in the extruder head or as often referred to a hot end nozzle.

3 ways to clean out the extruder hot end nozzle:

Ender 3 Cleaning out clogged hot end nozzle
  • Method 1: (Clean nozzle with a needle)
    • Use extreme caution when performing this operation as the nozzle will remain hot.
    • Preheat extruder hot end nozzle to 240 degrees, cooling fans to remain off during this process.
    • After temperature reached 200 degrees, pull out filament.
    • Then use the silver needle that came equipped with your 3d printer and insert the needle up into the nozzle from the dispensing side.
    • Repeat until all the impurity are cleaned our of the nozzle.
    • Reload the filament until it come out normally from the nozzle.
    • If method 1 did not fix the issue proceed to method 2 below
  • Method 2: (Change nozzle)
    • Use extreme caution when performing this operation as the nozzle will remain hot.
    • Preheat extruder hot end nozzle to 240 degrees, cooling fans to remain off during this process.
    • After temperature reached 200 degrees, pull out filament.
    • Unscrew two screw that hold the fan cover and move fan cover out of the way.
    • Use the small open end wrench that came equipped with your 3d printer to unscrew the nozzle.
    • Load the filament thru the feeding tube and push to clean out any impurities out of the tube and the heat block.
    • Install new nozzle or reinstall old nozzle after insuring that it is cleaned out and tighten it with the wrench. Please use caution as the extruder head is hot.
    • Reinstall the fan cover and tighten the screws.
    • Reload the filament until it come out normally from the nozzle.
    • If method 2 did not fix the issue proceed to method 3 below.
  • Method 3: (clean out nozzle pipe)
    • Use extreme caution when performing this operation as the nozzle will remain hot.
    • Preheat extruder hot end nozzle to 240 degrees, cooling fans to remain off during this process.
    • After temperature reached 200 degrees, pull out filament.
    • Cut loose zip-tie or tape that hold the Teflon feeding tube to the wire.
    • Unscrew two screw that hold the fan cover and move fan cover out of the way.
    • Use the small open end wrench that came equipped with your 3d printer to unscrew the nozzle.
    • Unscrew the large quick connect fitting on top of the extruder head and pull out the Teflon tube.
    • Disconnect the Teflon tube from the quick connect at the filament drive motor.
    • Use the Teflon tube to insert into the nozzle head with the fitting removed to clean out any impurities.
    • If the ends of the Teflon tube are clogged or damaged. Replace with new one or salvage the old one by cutting the damaged ends off.
    • Reassemble everything back and reload the filament until it come out normally from the nozzle.

If the above steps do not apply to your case and you are experiencing this same issue the solution may be down below:

The first thing to look at is the flow rate of the filament.  TPU filament is very soft and flexible therefore it is extremely difficult to push through the feeding or Teflon tube although not impossible.

Reduce the flow rate of the filament.  This can be done on the printer itself while the machine is running by overriding the g-code setting with the printer tune in setting or in the slicer software by adjusting the flow or extrusion multiplier setting.

Filament is too much or too little (under extrude or over extrude) 

When printing a test model or a calibration cube for example you may notice the cube does not look like a cube but more like a mesh or the opposite,  corners would be bulky and rounded.  This is a common result of under or over extrusion. 

In simple terms too much or too little filament. The fix for this is the same for all types of filaments, simply adjust the flow of the filament as described in the paragraph above. 

Top cover layer is not “covered” appears like a mesh

Top cover layer is not “covered” appears like a mesh on calibration cube

In this instance is a little bit different from the issue described above.  Here we see that the extrusion is perfect for the bottom layer and the walls but the top layer is not covered.  
We solved this issue by increasing the number of “top” layers to 5 in the layer settings tab in the simplify3d slicer software. 

Layers not sticking together.

One of the most frustrating things to live through is waiting for hours on the project to complete printing just to find out that the layer did not stick together and the superhero you just printed is sliced up into hundreds of layers like a stack of pringles. 

Most common reason for this is the print temperature is too low. It is just enough to melt the material to dispense it but not not enough to bond it to be layer below. The material cools and solidify too quickly before it actually reaches the layer it is being extruded on.

The solution for 3d printing layer separation is as simple as increasing the nozzle temperature. The typical temperature setting for for the extruder head when printing TPU is 230 degrees Celsius.  This may also depend on the size of your nozzle. If you are using larger nozzle try increasing the nozzle by ten degrees at a time and see if this helps you achieve better results.

Part not sticking to the bed and curls up.

When your 3d print is not sticking to the bed one of the simplest things to try is to add a brim to your part. A brim is much like a support material that is printed on the first layer extending out of the part that can be broken away after the part is finished printing.

This will allow more surface area on the bed and help with the adhesion. Here I found a helpful video on this topic that may bring you some value.

Finished product looks rough and dull.

When your finished 3d print looks rough and dull one of the reasons may be the material flow. To fix the flow issue you can follow the steps we have laid out above. The other reason for the parts to be rough is the TPU filament is not dry.

If your TPU filament makes little popping and sizzling noises from hot end when it is extruded, the reason is that it has absorbed too much water.

This can be remedied by drying the filament in the conventional oven, a food dehydrator, or a dedicated filament dryer.

TPU filament absorbs moisture and if it has been sitting out for some time and absorbed moisture then when printing this will result in an unfavorable results.

Struggling with stubborn stringing when printing TPU?

When 3d printing TPU filament it is extremely important to DRY out filament thoroughly. TPU filament that has been sitting out absorbs moisture and will cause stringing regardless of settings and effort to prevent it.

There are few ways you can dry out the TPU filament before using it.

If you have the food dehydrator you can utilize it for drying out filament. Better yet is the filament dryer you can get online. The best yet is most budget friendly is the conventional oven.

To dry TPU filament using conventional oven. First preset your oven temperature to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Then place a full 1kg spool in the oven for about an hour. After an hour, remove the spool from the oven and it’s ready for printing. The results will astonish you.

You can download fff simplify3d profile for that we used on our Ender 3 pro to print with Amazon Basics White TPU that we got on Amazon.

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