Your 3D printer is only as good as it is calibrated.
How to calibrate E-Step on a 3D printer? By default if you’re using an Ender 3 the values going to be 93. But if you’re starting to see any type of over or under extrusion issues or if you swap out parts like hot end nozzle or changing over to direct drive from a bowden tube. Things like that will affect the oem calibration and I believe it’s important that you re-calibrate your 3d printer.
Formula to calibrate extruder e-steps on 3D printer:
- (Input length) x (Current E-step number) = Results
- (Results) / (Your measuring length) = New e-step number To replace current e-step number on your 3D printer.
For example: Stock Ender 3 pro setting is 93 (current e-step) over extruding example
- (130mm) x (93) = 12,090
- 12,090 / (Ex: 135) = 89.55 New e-step number To replace current e-step number.
Note: The longer the distance you measure the more accurate calibration will be. We went with 130 mm So we can get the most use out of the standard 6 inch caliper.
Before we begin with the calibration process you want to make sure all bolts are tightened correctly and all belts tensioned properly on your 3d printer.
So here’s the easy way of calibrating E-steps on your 3D printer.
- Turn on your 3D printer, then navigate to nozzle temperature and set it to a temperature you normally print at. Typically 215 degrees Celsius for PLA filament.
- With a fine tip permanent marker mark 130 mm set point from the extruder base Where filament enters then make another Mark at 150 mm.
- Next, navigate you 3D printer to prepare -> move axis -> extruder -> “move 1mm” enter 130mm, and feed it through your system. (See Pictures)
select move axis -> 
select extruder ->
select “move 1mm” enter 130mm, then push on knob for OK.
- How to measure how much filament actually dispensed:
- If over extruded filament would go past the first set point marking where you can’t see it.
- To calculate the actual distance extruded, measure back from the 150mm set point to the extruder base where filament enters.
- Then use formula for example 150mm – (10mm measure distance from the step above) = 140mm would be actual extruded distance.
- If under extruded filament you would still see both set marks.
- To calculate the actual distance extruded, measure back from the 150mm set point to the extruder base where filament enters.
- Then use formula for example 150mm – (50mm measure distance from the step above) = 100mm would be actual extruded distance.
- If over extruded filament would go past the first set point marking where you can’t see it.
- Now that you have found the actual distance your 3D printer extruder use the formula below to calculate e-steps
- Formula to calibrate e steps on 3D printer:
- (Input length) x (Current E-step number) = Results
- (Results) / (Your measuring length) = New e-step number To replace current e-step number on your 3D printer.
select Steps/mm
enter new value here to override the old value (in my case 97.5)
Store setting so they do not get lost when printer is powered down.
- Formula to calibrate e steps on 3D printer:
- Repeat the first step and confirm that filament came to a stop at the first set marketing at 130 mm otherwise, repeat this process as many times as needed to get the desired precision. Be sure to store new settings at store memory.
Congratulations! you have successfully calibrated extruder e-steps.
I hope that this post saved you a lot of headache, time, and filament. If you found this content useful please share with others and subscribe so you don’t miss out on my latest post. Please comment below and share with us your 3D printing experience.
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