3D printing technology may seem very attractive to get yourself into and It may seem like almost anything can be 3d printed with ease as often advertised by the makers of 3d printers. While this is true to some extent there are also many limitations in 3d printing industry that you should be aware of.
In this post I will go over some of the obvious and not so obvious 3d printing limitations that I wish I was aware of before I bought my first 3d printer. First, lets start with the fact that not everything can be 3d printed.
Not everything can be 3d printed.
While this may seem very obvious you should be aware of the things that can not be 3d printed.
Can not be 3d printed
polished surfaces can not be achieved yet
large overhang (requires supports)
glass
wood
rocks
paper
cloth
fruits and veggies
leather and fabric
Can be 3d printed
prototypes
replacement parts
houses
food
gadgets
functional mechanisms
castings
prosthetic
skin-cells
Build size limit.
Another limitation of 3d printing is the build size limit. While large, very expensive 3d printers do exist in the commercial space they are not commonly available to the general public.
Desktop 3d printer build size limit is starting at 110mm x 110mm x 120mm on a Monoprice Mini Delta to the largest offered today by Anycubic Mega X with build size limit of 300mm x 300mm x 300mm. Some homemade 3d printers may exceed these numbers.
3d printers are constantly improving and maybe at the time you are reading this post there may be even larger build size limit 3d printers available but there is a downside to that as well.
Larger prints will take more time to print and if anything goes wrong it can result in a whole lot of wasted 3d printing material as well as lost time that can not be recovered and this brings us to the next topic.
Speed vs. Quality
In 3d printing, the speed and quality is what determines the perfection of 3d printed model. If you care less about the quality perfection and just want to get the prototype model 3d printed. There are several settings that can be adjusted without compromising the structural integrity of the model.
Speeding Up 3D Printer
Increasing layer offset will drastically reduce printing time but as a result the quality of the surface finish will show some layer lines and no impact to the structural integrity of the part. Good example of this would be an engineering part like gear.
Replacing the hot end nozzle with a larger opening hole will be dispensing more material. As a result the printing time will be reduced and also the quality. This may work well for a large models with no fine details on the surface or maybe layer lines could be used as an intentional design. Good example of this could potentially be a vase.
Reducing the infill percentage. Benefit of this is reducing the amount of material and time used by a little bit vs. drastically reducing the structural integrity of the model. This may be okay for 3d printing figurines but will be an absolute disaster for 3d printed functional mechanical components.
3D Printing Hollow Object
Long overhangs and Bridges
It is critical to know that 3d printers are not capable of printing long overhang “T” or long bridges without support.
Good design practice would be to avoid them all together when possible. Make your design 3d printer friendly by implementing fillets and chamfers for overhangs and use “Y” type design overhang instead of “T” whenever possible.
If you already own a 3d printer you can download a “All In One 3D Printer Test” on thingiverse to test the limits of your particular 3d printer. I personally try to print one of these every time that I switch to a new brand or material type. It will save you a whole lot of filament and frustration knowing these simple limits.
Next, we can talk about skills, time, and dedication.
Skills, Time, Dedication
3D printing is a very unique industry that requires a special skills. While some 3d printers are ready to use right out of the box, most will require some assembling.
Mechanical hands on skills are a must, not only to assemble the 3d printer out of the box but to also tinker with it as you learn more about 3d printing. 3D printer will require a lot of adjusting to achieve perfect results, some may require to upgrade mechanical or electronic parts for better performance.
Computer skills will come in handy. No, 3d printers do not require a computer to run but the two work hand in hand with each other. In order to 3d print something, one must have a 3d model first. Then, the model needs to be sliced in the slicer software to generate a g-code that the printer can read. Save the g-code on a memory card and print that file on a 3d printer. Computer skill are required to create 3d models as well as to slice them.
Starting out with a new hobby of 3d printing will be a learning curve that will take time and a whole lot of it. It’s easy to get lost in your imaginations with expectations out of reach for a newbie. So, set your expectations reasonably and little by little you will be a pro before you know it.
To become a pro at any task first you must dedicate yourself and your time to learn from mistakes and welcome any challenges that will come your way.
Large volume 3d printing
Large volume printing is not impossible with 3d printing although it is not very practical for an individual with a single printer. 3D printing is a very slow process and large volume 3d printing or mass production can be done with a 3d print farm.
3D printing farm is a setting where a large group of 3d printers work simultaneously and continuously with minimum downtime to increase throughput and efficiency of 3d printed parts.
3d print farm
Printing fine details
3D printing fine details also has its limitations. Regardless of what you are printing, lines can not be smaller than the nozzle opening. Smaller nozzle in combination with a minimum layer height will result in a higher resolution prints and will show all the fine details on the 3d printed model. This is perfect solution for a detailed landscape or a figurines but will consume a lot of time printing.
3D printing metal
Last on the list is one of the limitations of 3d printing I hope will soon be resolved is 3d printing metal. Metal 3d printing does exist in the industry but not readily available to general public. Today you can 3d print plastic filament with metal powder additives and that is about as close as you will get to 3d printing metal at home.
Keeping my eyes open for metal 3d printing desktop printers to hit the market soon.
When you’re planning for any big purchase, you must look at all the factors that could influence the price. Until you know exactly how much it will cost you, you won’t know if the item is really worth it. 3D printers are taking off in popularity, but many people wonder if the benefits are really worth the price.
Entry-level 3D printers can be as cheap as $200-$500, but the better quality 3D printers for home use can be between $1,500-$10,000. Some materials can be found at $15-$20 per kg, whereas others can be $100-$200 per kg. Additionally, 3D printers are prone to needing repairs, which can be costly.
Considering all of the different expenses, benefits, and drawbacks, you can decide if buying a 3D printer is worth it for you. We’ll break down the cost of the machine and materials below to help you understand the price range you can expect.
Expected Expenses
The 3D Printer Itself
The least expensive 3D printers on the market are $200. Even though that might seem like a steal, it’s important to know that these printers need a lot of set-up work, have very few features, can typically only use one material, are limited in the size they can print (3-4″ in each dimension), print lower quality work, and break very frequently.
In most situations, if you want a 3D printer, you don’t actually want one that’s too cheap. You get what you pay for!
The next range of 3D printers is considered for “hobbyists.” These are anywhere between $300-$1,500. These printers still require quite a bit of set-up work, print lower quality work, and break easily. They improve upon the cheapest 3D printers in that they can print slightly larger sizes (5-6″ in each dimension) and can use a few different materials.
The following range of 3D printers is considered for “enthusiasts.” These printers can be found from $1,500-$3,500. With the price increase for this range, you get better-sized prints (8-12″ in each dimension), reasonable speed, good quality prints, and access to more materials (unless the printer only works with the manufacturer’s standard materials). Unfortunately, these printers still break easily. In general, if you plan to use it for more than 40 hours a month, you should expect to spend a significant amount of time repairing and maintaining the machine.
The most expensive home-use 3D printers are around $3,500-$10,000. For many people, this is simply out of their budget. However, these options do create much better quality work. These 3D printers are considered “professional” or “performance” printers. They have large and enclosed build areas which can print 12″ in each dimension.
Due to the area being enclosed, you have access to almost any material. That being said, the manufacturer for each printer should provide the list of materials that will print best from that printer. Since there is still a large margin in this range, note which printers can create the best quality for the speed and the printer’s durability. No matter what range you buy, 3D printers need repairs but some need much less than others.
Materials
There are two different kinds of materials used in most 3D printers: fused deposition modeling (FDM) and stereolithography (SLA). FDM uses thermoplastic filament whereas SLA uses photosensitive resin. Filament materials are the most common and least expensive of the two.
When considering the cost of each material, you will want to check the prices for specific colors, the quantity, and that specific product’s tolerance. Colored materials and tighter tolerances tend to be more expensive but buying large quantities can lower the price.
Type of Material
Average Cost
Pros
Cons
PLA (filament)
$15-$20 per kilogram
Very common Easy to print Inexpensive
Not the best quality material
ABS (filament)
$15-$20 per kilogram
Fairly common Does well with strength and temperature resistance Inexpensive
Requires a heated build plate
PETG (filament)
$16-$19 per kilogram
Easy to print Does well with strength and temperature resistance Inexpensive
Nylon (filament)
$50-$73 per kilogram
Relatively flexible Highly chemically resistant Builds decent functional parts
Expensive
TPU/TPE/Soft PLA (filament)
$87-$110 per kilogram
Flexible Builds decent rubber-like models
Expensive
Polycarbonate (non-standard filament)
$30–$93 per kilogram
Very strong High strength and durability Good electrical insulation properties
Optically transparent Most options are at the high end of the price range
ASA (filament)
$30–$93 per kilogram
UV resistant Moisture resistant Electrically insulating Good for outdoor applications
Can get expensive fairly quick
SLA (resin)
$40–$300 per liter
Very high resolution prints
Very expensive The price difference is determined by the resin quality and the printing resolution the resin is compatible with
Specialty Materials (filament)
$20-$600 per kilogram
Can contain additives such as wood, glitter, glow-in-the-dark features, carbon fiber, stainless steel, magnetic iron powder, and kilnable metal.
Depending on the additive, can be extremely expensive and hard to use
Benefits of 3D Printers
Can Potentially Save Time and Money
Depending on the printer’s capabilities, you could very well print items for less than what you would spend buying them. For example, certain printers excel at printing functional parts. If you needed to repair something around the house, you could make the part yourself instead of waiting for the item to be shipped and avoid unnecessary costs.
One reason many people enjoy 3D printers is the ability to make gifts. You can print figurines, signs, jewelry, parts for games, etc. Essentially, you can make whatever you want! This falls into the age-old practice of giving homemade gifts to save money, and by having a 3D printer you are upping your ability to make high-quality homemade gifts.
Additionally, if you are making items, you can sell them. Using an online platform to sell your prints is a great way to mitigate the expenses of a 3D printer. You can have specific items that you sell or you can open yourself up to receiving custom orders (people are willing to pay more for their own designs and ideas).
3D Printing Can Be More Environmentally Sustainable
Going back to the example of printing something you could have bought online, by doing this you will be reducing your personal environmental impact. Namely, you won’t be contributing to the fuel used in delivery and the single-use packaging used for your item. Plus, considering how many manufacturing and delivery steps can be taken on just one item before it gets to you, you could reduce even more emissions by simply making the item at home.
If being environmentally sustainable is important to you, you can also use specific 3D printing filaments that are made of waste plastics and/or environmentally friendly materials (hemp, seaweed, soy, wood fiber, etc.). You’ll be creating your own recycled and/or non-toxic products. Additionally, you can recycle your own filament that you use! These don’t work with every 3D printer, but it’s nice to know that the option exists.
Future-Proofing
3D printing is growing bigger and better each year. It is being used in hospitals, schools (high school and universities), manufacturing companies, and by engineers. As 3D printing spreads into new fields and the technology continues to advance, 3D printing can become a “new normal.” Regardless of how it grows, it is clear the 3D printing will expand in use and popularity.
In order to not fall behind, it could be a good idea for you to invest in a 3D printer now. This could mean getting one for the purpose of simply learning how it works and becoming skilled in those programs, which may become standard knowledge in the future. And who knows, maybe in the next decade it will become normal for each home to have a 3D printer. By purchasing one now, you will be ahead of the curve either way.
Drawbacks of 3D Printers
They Are Expensive!
As stated before, to get a good quality printer that genuinely benefits you, you will have to spend some serious cash. The 3D printers needed to create functional parts and marketable products are not cheap. The materials cost money as well, and you will need to keep buying more as you go.
Even though some of the materials seem pretty affordable, it is important to consider how much of each material you need to create an item. The materials (with the exception of resin) are measured in weight, so the density of a material affects the price of how much you need. Then, considering the different qualities of materials, you may need a more expensive material just because of what you are making. So essentially, it adds up.
You Need To Be Handy or Have The Money For Repairs
Going along with the high cost of using a 3D printer, you may need to factor in the cost of repairs. 3D printers break a lot (even the more expensive models). This means that you either need to be really good at repairing machines or be able to afford to fix the printer.
That being said, the severity of this issue does depend on the printer and how the printer breaks. Perhaps the repairs are easy and simple to do yourself. In that case, no worries. But if you need to replace parts or something is wrong with the system, repairs could be a burdensome thing.
You Need To Know The Programs
Unfortunately, 3D printing objects is not as easy as printing a piece of paper. Just like you need to know programs for designing pages to be printed, you need to know the programs for printing 3D models. Some of these programs are free, but like everything, the best options require payment.
That being said, there are pre-made 3D model plans that you can find/buy online but only using pre-made designs isn’t worth the cost of having your own 3D printer.
Miscellaneous
3D printers require ventilation. First, because certain materials emit very foul plastic odors. Some materials stink worse than others, but they all give off an odor. Second, 3D printers emit nondetectable nanoparticles. These particles could be breathed in and so far, there aren’t studies on how that can affect long-term health. It’s better to be safe than sorry.
Most of the affordable 3D printer options do not have enclosed build areas. Meaning, the finicky moving parts and hot end are completely exposed. This first increases the risk of the 3D printer being damaged. Second, this becomes a danger if you have small children or pets. If a child or pet should stick their finger or nose into the build area, they could be burned or otherwise injured. Along with the harm this could cause, it could also break the printer.
Although this is only a small annoyance for most, 3D printing is also fairly loud. Depending on where you plan to keep your 3D printer, the noise could be problematic.
When Is It Worth It?
In summary, a 3D printer could very much be worth it for you if you have the money to spend, are handy with maintenance and repairs, have a lot of projects to use it for, want to be a little more environmentally sustainable, are planning for the future of technology, and/or want to sell your creations.
Additionally, it should not be overlooked that your desire is a factor. Are you really, really interested in design and building models? Do you love creating useful things? Are you passionate about some aspect of 3D printing? Do you want to be an inventor? If getting a 3D printer is important to you for any of these reasons, then buying one is probably going to be worth it to you.
When Is It Not Worth It?
If you aren’t sure you can afford a 3D printer, don’t rush into this decision. Like we said before, they will be around for a while and you can always get one later when it’s within your budget.
If you don’t know what you’re actually going to use it for or can only think of a couple of projects, then it’s probably not worth the money or hassle. If you don’t want to learn new programs, you shouldn’t get one. There is a learning curve for getting a 3D printer and you need to be fully invested in that learning to make the printer useful.
If you aren’t good with repairs and/or don’t want to worry about your machine breaking all the time, 3D printers probably aren’t for you in general. They do require a lot of work and that may make this purchase a burden rather than a benefit.
When your gut feeling is telling you that something is not right, it probably isn’t and when your 3d printer is making the clicking noise it may be one of those times. But don’t let it spoil your print, with a simple adjustment this can be fixed and in this post I will show you exactly how to do it.
What is the clicking noise on my 3d printer?
The clicking noise that you hear coming from your FDM 3d printer is the drive gear slipping on the filament. When pressure builds up on the tension spring, it slips making the popping or clicking sound. There are several reasons why the drive gear may be slipping and here you will find out how to prevent it.
Why does the drive gear slip?
The most common reason for drive gear to slip on the filament is the clog in the hot end nozzle. While clog is the most common reason for the drive gear to slip on the filament it is not the only reason. It may also include hot end nozzle temperature setting, type of filament material, extrusion multiplier, or the speed of the filament feed.
Clogged hot end nozzle.
Let’s look at the clog in the hot end nozzle. Suppose you printing with a flexible material that is stretchy and sticky. It is recommended that the retraction setting be disabled or set to a very minimum. Because when the sticky material is pulled back into the nozzle it will leave the sticky residue on the walls of the hot end nozzle that will eventually create a clog.
If you did use the flexible material don’t let it worry you as there are few things you can do to help prevent the clogs. First you can try a cold pull.
Clearing the clog
The hot end nozzle is somewhat an upside down cone shape and when material is dispensed, it is melted and pushed thru a tiny hole. What you can do is compress the spring on the drive gear idler or disconnect the bowden tube at the hot end and push the filament into the heated hot end.
Push filament thru heated extruder to clear the clog then bull back quickly
See if any material comes out. Then, quickly pull the entire string of filament out of the hot end. You may notice at the tip of the filament where it was in the hot end residue of another filament. Next, use needle that was supplied with your 3d printer and push up the hot end nozzle thru the hole to clear any blockage.
Filament material coming out of the hot end nozzle
Repeat this process until blockage is cleared.
If still unable to clear the clog. It may be time for a new hot end nozzle tip.
Good Practice Tip
When using sticky or flexible materials often there is a cleaning filament that you can buy and run it thru the printer to clean out the nozzle. It is designed specifically for this reason. The blend of filament when it melts will stick to any material more that it does to the metal nozzle.
Temperature Settings
Maybe you didn’t use flexible material and the hot end nozzle still clogged. This may happen when the 3d printer has been sitting in the preheat for too long with material in the nozzle.
Any filament is a type of plastic. When plastic is heated it melts. But overheating it may result in a change of properties within a materials that will prevent it from melting again.
To clear the clog the above step can be applied for this case as well.
It is a good practice to pull back the filament out of the hot end when preheating the printer. Use caution when working around the hot contents.
What to do when you hear clicking noise:
This may not be the wisest suggestion but it works. This is what I do for a temporary fix. If you can catch it early enough where your print isn’t ruined yet and but printed so much where abandoning the print is not an option.
Before trying the method I will describe below first identify that the material is coming out of the hot end nozzle. This will determine that the temperature is set correctly and hot end nozzle is not clogged.
Temporary Fix
Try compressing and releasing the spring at the drive gear idler that feed the filament to release the build up pressure first. Then, override the extruder speed setting on your printer.
3d printer filament gear drive
From my personal experience lowering the extruder speed by 10% at the time makes it easier to calculate the extrusion multiplier in the slicer settings later. For example, if the speed of the extruder had to be reduces three times by 10% each time, then the total percent change is 30%.
Solution
Update the slicer profile for the filament that is being printed and reduce the extrusion multiplier by the number you calculated or 30% (from the above example).
Conclusion
Now you know what makes the clicking sound, where it is coming from and how to fix this problem. Hopefully my trial and errors will save you a whole lot of filament and a bunch of headache.
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Having a 3d printer around a house is great and even better when you can get the most use out of it. To do so it is important to know something about all the different filament types, how to print them and the best uses for each of the filament. So, stay with us as we go over all the types of filament and who knows, you might actually learn something new today.
PLA Types of Filaments:
I will cover the PLA types of filament first as it is the #1 choice for most printing projects. PLA is a very common material for 3d printing among hobbyists. It is the cheapest, harmless, recyclable, and it comes in many different colors. PLA also is the easiest filament to work with. It sticks to nearly everything and does not require a headed bed.
PLA
PLA – is a polyester. The most widely used plastic filament material in 3D printing. It comes in many different colors. It is both recyclable and biodegradable in an industrial composter.
PLA is renewable as it is made from corn starch or sugar cane.
Because PLA solidifies at low temperature allows 3d printers with cooling fans do very aggressive maneuvers and build long bridges without the need for support.
The downside of PLA is that it softens at a very low temperature. So if the product is left for some time near a hot surface or inside a car out on hot sun it can potentially turn into a useless blob.
PLA+
PLA plus is sometimes referred to as PLA pro or Tough PLA. Basically it is the same PLA modified to be a bit tougher without going to a next up more expansive materials. This “plus” can include higher melting point and or impact resistant just to name a few. PLA plus is a few bucks pricier than regular PLA but still is cheaper than most other materials.
Keep in mind that if your are going to print with a PLA plus you may need to adjust your 3d printer profile to suit this particular filament. Always check the spool for a recommended temperature settings and compare that to a regular PLA that you are using. This will give you a good starting point to begin tuning the profile for PLA plus.
HT PLA (High-Temp)
High-Temp or HT PLA is a filament that can be 3d printed as a regular PLA. The main difference is that it allows you to heat treat it. So, print a part, throw it in the oven, and increase the melting point of the part by nearly 3 times from 50 deg. Celsius to about 160 deg. Celsius.
This is great for printing gadgets that will require to be exposed to heat like car accessories or anyplace that is hear heat. This stuff will never melt in the sunlight. Otherwise this is same as regular PLA but about 4 time more expansive.
Silk PLA
Silk PLA is a PLA with elastomer mixed in it. Parts printed in Silk PLA are as bright as a brushed metal straight out of the 3d printer. Silk PLA is much more brittle than standard PLA therefore it is great for 3d printing display models.
Silk PLA prints much like regular PLA but with elastomer in mixed it it you should watch out for aggressive retraction setting as this will clog up the nozzle and end up in a jam.
Rainbow PLA
Rainbow PLA is a same Silk PLA described above but instead of being one solid color this filament will have a mixture of colors on a same wire and will change colors every about 200 cm.
To get the maximum effect of a Rainbow PLA in you print it is best to print a very tall model like a vase or if you need an assortment of some sort you can print a bunch of small items.
Color Changing PLA
Color Changing PLA is a very cool filament that changes color when near heat or exposed to sunlight. It is printed as a regular PLA but if overheated it may not change colors anymore.
This is a great choice of filament for jewelry or decorations.
PLA Composites
PLA Composites is a PLA filament blend with metal / wood powders and fibers. Any Composites filaments are extremely abrasive and it is highly recommended to replace the stock 0.4 mm brass tip to a 0.5 mm hardened steel hot end nozzle.
Marble PLA
Marble PLA is a filament with a finished marble stone look when the part is finished. There a two types of marble PLA.
One is just a marble colored PLA and nothing more special.
Two is actually a blend of powder stone with PLA and this one will require a hardened steel nozzle.
Wood PLA
Wood PLA is a blend of PLA plastic and a real wood dust. This filament absorbs moisture like a sponge and needs to be kept in a dry box or dehydrator.
The really cool thing about wood PLA is that it 3d printed model can be sanded and stained. Better yet if printed with a larger layer height and not sanded the part may not look so pleasant but when wood stained it will give off an authentic wood feel and the layers look like real wood grains.
Give this one a try for a jewelry box
Glowing PLA
Glowing PLA is a composite PLA and will need a hardened steel nozzle as it is very abrasive. It is a PLA blend with glowing pigment powder that gives it a glow effect but also makes 3d printed models very rough on finish and very brittle.
When printing glowing PLA it is best to make the walls extra thick to maximize the glow effect and keep a close eye on printer as this filament clogs the nozzle like no other filaments.
Glowing PLA is one of the most difficult filaments to print and it’s best to keep the retraction setting off for this one.
Glitter PLA
Glitter PLA is a blend of PLA and glitter and it is fairly cheap. The glitter is usually not super fine and will require a wide nozzle. It is also on a difficult side to print and this filament stick to hot end and will require extensive cleaning after it is finished with.
To maximize the effect of glitter it is best to print thin walls and thick layer height.
Sparkly PLA
Sparkly PLA is a great alternative to glitter PLA. It can be printed just like a regular PLA. Sparkly PLA or Metallic PLA does not contain glitter but it is shiny do to a manufacturing plastic composite process.
To maximize the effect of shines it is best to print this with thick wall thickness and fine layer height.
Carbon Fiber PLA
Carbon Fiber PLA is a mixture of PLA and tiny carbon fibers for reinforcement. This filament is not much stronger than regular PLA. The advantage of CF PLA is the fibers assist the plastic during the building process and the prints come out looking much much better than the regular PLA. This also helps with dimensional accuracy as well as appearance.
CF PLA is very abrasive and hardened steel nozzle is a must because standard brass nozzle will get destroyed instantly.
It’s important to note that there are different types of carbon fiber PLA.
ground carbon fibers
This will not increase any of the mechanical strength in the print but will give it a fine matte finish.
short chopped carbon fibers
This will increase strength of the part and will need a hardened steel hot end nozzle.
long chopped carbon fibers
This is the toughest but also most brittle and hardened steel hot end nozzle is a must with a wide opening.
High Temp Carbon Fiber PLA
HT-CF-PLA is a blend of high temperature PLA and Carbon Fiber. This is one of the most brittle filament on the list and will require a close attention when printing as it can snap and result in run-out print. It may be a great idea to equip your printer with a filament run-out sensor if it don’t already have one.
Models printed in HT CF PLA come out warped from the printer but amazingly when heat treated in the oven they go back to normal and fiber help to stabilize and reinforce the model and make it easier to heat treat.
Conductive PLA
Conductive PLA is a very interesting filament. No it will not replace the circuit board or wires but it does allow you to embed LED right in your print with no wires required. It is also great for phone accessories, touch censors, stylus and much more.
Conductive PLA is filled with black carbon. This makes it very brittle, difficult to print because parts like to warp, and even more difficult to clean out the nozzle after swapping to different filament.
For best practices when switching from conductive PLA move on to a black color filament because the black carbon will ruing the next print if printed in light color.
Metal PLA
Metal PLA is a 50/50 blend of metal and plastic. This filament can be printed at the lowest temperatures. It is not any stronger than regular PLA and is more brittle. Metal PLA can be buffed and polished for a shiny looks and rusted with vinegar peroxide salt solution for antique look.
For best results when buffing or polishing use high temperature metal PLA and then heat treat it. Also with any metal PLA hardened steel hot end nozzle is a must and it is recommended to use 0.5 mm tip or higher.
It’s good to note that metal is heavy and when buying a spool of 1 kg of filament you will actually get half as much of filament than you would when buying regular PLA. Filaments are sold by weight not length.
Iron PLA
Iron PLA is similar to metal PLA and does require a hardened steel nozzle. The unique properties about Iron PLA is that it is magnetic and can be rusted. Iron retains heat longer this makes it one of the lowest temperature printing filament.
Hot end temperature for Iron PLA should be about 180 deg Celsius, retraction low, and keep and eye out on it as it can melt in the heat-break and clog the nozzle.
Stainless Steel PLA
SS PLA is just like other Metal PLA. It is super heavy, requires a hardened hot end nozzle, can be polished to almost a reflective finish and will not rust nor it is magnetic.
Brass PLA
Brass PLA is a mix of brass (copper zinc) particles and PLA. Brass is very dense and has a high thermal mass. Models printed in Brass PLA are heavy and look cool.
Bronze PLA
Bronze PLA is a blend of PLA and Bronze alloy that makes these prints really cool especially when 3d printing “artifacts” because Bronze will oxidize and develop a cool greenish layer that will look like a real artifact or it can be polished if clean bronze look is desired. It is heavy so keep in mind about the length of filament on the spool when making a purchase.
Copper PLA
Copper PLA is a blend of copper and PLA. It is very dense and heavy. Copper PLA takes brushing, buffing, and polishing particularly well and if you add a touch of oil or black paint it will look absolutely stunning.
PETG
PETG is cheap and easy to print. It is recyclable and you can glue, weld, and machine it. The biggest downside is that PETG Saggs during 3d printing so long bridges and overhangs are nearly impossible and support material is hard to break away.
For best practice design models in a way where it doesn’t have any overhangs nor it would require support material. PETG is an awesome general-purpose filament for functional mechanical prints that have to get some beating.
T-Glaze Filament
T-Glaze filament is one of the most transparent filaments around. T-Glaze is a specially formulated blend of PETG to make clear watertight prints. Print this at higher temperature than the regular PETG and it’s designed to go directly on the glass bed to make the bottom layer crystal clear.
For best results, on the first layer turn the fan all the way down or off and turn the multiplier up, slow down speed and lay out thickest lines the nozzle can handle similar to lines of the raft.
HIPS
Hips (high-impact polystyrene) is one tough material that handles impacts like no other material. It’s fairly inexpensive and often used in multi material printers to make dissolvable supports for abs.
HIPS printing filament it’s super light and it has exceptional layer adhesion to the point of being watertight. Enclosures are recommended since even a minor draft will spoil the print and it only sticks the kapton tape.
Hips handle overhangs really well and because it flexes without creasing it makes a really good choice for living hinges.
ABS
ABS is one of the most commonly discussed filaments. There are many products made from ABS like legos. But in 3d printing ABS has issues. It is difficult to print, models warp, wont stick to the print bed, and to top it off it gives off toxic gasses when heated. If you need something printed from ABS consider using it’s alternative ASA.
ASA
ASA is basically all the properties of ABS but is 3d printer friendly. It prints easy, models look great, but it is toxic like ABS and will require an enclosure with ventilation when printing.
Purge Filament
Purge filament is a special type of filament designed specifically for purging. It melts at 190 and burns at 270 deg Celsius. It is ideal when switching from high temp filament to low temp filament to run purge filament in between. Because when loading low temperature filament high temp. filament that remained in the nozzle can solidify and cause a jam.
Cleaning Filament
Cleaning filament is also a special purpose filament. It is designed in a way to stick to all other materials more than the residue of the all other materials to the hot end nozzle and it pull off any residues as it is dispensed thru the nozzle.
Cleaning filament however can not clear blockages in the nozzle but is great to run after using flexible or sticky filaments.
TPE Flexible Filament
TPE is a thermoplastic elastomer better known as NinjaFlex is one of the most difficult filaments to print because of its properties of stretch and flex that make TPE so amazingly unique.
The challenge with TPE is to maintain the correct pressure in the hot end. Too little pressure and nothing comes out too much pressure and it will windup itself around the drive gears.
It is best to use TPE with the direct drive FDM 3d printer alltho it is possible to print on a bowden tube printer but extremely difficult.
TPU Flexible Filament
TPU is a thermoplastic polyurethane that has unique properties that allow it to spring, flex, and it is also a really tough filament. Because it is soft and flexible makes it very difficult to print with a bowden tube but not impossible.
TPU absorbs moisture like a sponge and will string intensively when moist and the finished product will not appear smooth but rather a bit spongy if filament was not dried.
When printing larger objects with TPU it will warp and curl up on the corners. The best way to fix that I found is a fine layer of glue stick on the print bed where the object will print and when 3d model finished printing. Just wash it with soap and water to get the dried up glue off the model.
TPU is famous for 3d printing phone cases and you can find models for download along with a TPU profile that I use for 3d printing TPU with bowden tube on the download tab above.
Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus 3D Printed Flexible TPU Phone Case
Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus Phone Case 3D Printed in TPU
Polycarbonate
Polycarbonate (PC) is the best engineering plastic. It’s got all the strength and qualities for a perfect prototype. Pure PC requires very hot temperatures to print. Hot end nozzle is recommended up to 275 deg Celsius, bed temperature at 110 deg Celsius, and possibly a heated enclosure.
The more common Polycarbonate for 3d printing are alloys. It is a blend of PC and other materials to make the 3d printer more friendly and easier to print.
Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate
Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate – CF-PC is a filament infused with chopped carbon fibers. Similar to a Carbon Fiber PLA, fiber in the semi-flexible polycarbonate help to stabilize the plastic making the final results as stiff as a rock.
Carbon Fibers also help with printing better bridges and overhangs. CF-PC is more manageable to print that PC and is a great choice for engineering prototypes and toys like drones. It is abrasion resistant and handle heat very well.
Nylon
Nylon is a really common material for high-end professional prototyping. Nylon is a little flexible, extremely tough, handles abrasion very well, and super easy to post process. Nylon requires a heated bed, enclosure, and dry-box.
Conclusion
Hopefully this really long list of different types of filament materials helped you better understand what materials you may need for the upcoming project and what to expect from it.
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Why pay top dollar for a premium phone case when you can 3d print your own phone case with a custom design of your choice for a fraction of a cost? Here we will look at 3d printing phone case, what material is best for 3d printing phone case and in the end we will share our own CAD model of a Samsung S8+ phone case and a TPU slicer settings profile.
Can I 3D Print Phone Case?
Yes, most definitely. In fact I did just that and the results are astonishing. I printed in both, the most famous PLA filament and the less 3d printer friendly TPU. It is now my favorite custom 3d printed phone case and people love it. It’s a great way to showcase your work and attract people to 3d printing.
3D printing TPU is much more difficult that traditional PLA. The TPU material filament is very soft making it very difficult to push thru bowden tube if that is what your printer is equipped with. Although it is not impossible, I have successfully 3d printed a perfect TPU flexible phone case with a bowden tube.
From my research online it seems like most people critically recommend to have the retraction setting turned off when printing TPU. However when I have experimented this and had my retraction off I did not find it to be the most optimal setting.
Even thou the TPU is soft it still builds up a lot of pressure at the hot end nozzle and when moving from one point to another without dispensing the nozzle will still continue to ooze the filament resulting in very heavy stringing. It is ideal to have the retraction setting on at a very minimal. Just enough to release the build up pressure but not enough to pull the molten elastic material deep in the hot end nozzle and create a clog. My retraction setting is set at 0.5 mm with a bowden tube printer.
How Long Does It Take To 3D Print Phone Case?
3D Printing speed heavily depends on the material being printed and the printer settings. Typically you can expect an average around 3-4 hours to 3d print phone case in PLA and 9-11 hours to 3d print phone case in TPU filament.
3D Printing is a very slow process and majority of the speed setting will depend on the 3d printer and the filament material type. When I 3d printed a phone case in PLA filament with .01mm layer height it only took slightly under 3 hours to complete. Then I printed the same phone case with the same layer height in TPU filament and the print took almost 10 hours to finish. That is because the TPU filament material must be printed much slower than PLA.
How Much Does It Cost To 3D Print A Phone Case?
When 3d printing nearly entire cost is the cost of material. My 3d printed phone case in TPU filament material cost me about $1.08 per phone case. This does not include the cost of 3d printer energy consumption which would be about $0.09 for an average of 10 hours print time.
I used TPU filament from Amazon Basics and it worked out perfect for me on a Creality Ender 3 pro with a bowden tube. The cost breakdown:
1 kg spool of Amazon Basics TPU filament material cost me $30.32. The weight of 1 3d printed case is .035 kg. Take 1 kg and divide by .035 kg weight one case and get 28.57 cases can be made from 1 kg spool. Now the cost of $30.32 divided into 28 cases gives us $1.082 cost per case. So, is it really worth it to 3d print a phone case? yes
1 kg spool of TPU
$30.32
.035 kg = 1 3d printed phone case
$1.08
28 Cases from one spool
3d printed phone case on a weight scale
TPU Case vs. Hard Case
A hard case usually consists of solid plastic or PLA if 3d printed and lack the ability to provide a bumper cushion in an instance of an impact. A rubber-like material intended to cope with impacts or falls are often made of flexible materials such as silicone or thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). Cases made of TPU are resistant to scratches, shock, and abrasion. Most of the cases that come with the phones are made of TPU.
What is TPU Material Filament?
TPU filament material (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) is a flexible, abrasion resistant thermoplastic. TPU filament is elastic and resistant to abrasion can withstand impacts and is resistant to many chemicals. Its versatile and used in many different industries including 3d printing. TPU filament is a great choice for 3d printing phone cases, tracks and tires for rc toys, and virtually anything that is needed to be done in flexible, soft, but durable and abrasion resistant material.
How Fast Can You Print TPU? | Speed Settings
TPU filament material is very elastic and soft therefore it is much more difficult to 3d print than the commonly used hard plastic like PLA. When 3d printing TPU on my Creality Ender 3 pro with bowden tube I have my 3d printer speed setting at about 18% of the PLA speed.
Print speed for flexible TPU filament should be in the range of 15 to 20 mm/sec (900 mm/min) for bowden tube 3d printer. Direct drive 3d printers may print at a slightly faster speed. Layer height should be set at 0.1 mm. Extrusion temperature may range from200-230˚C with the heated bed set around 40-60˚C.
Is TPU Material Good for Phone Case?
Yes, TPU is a best choice of material for a phone case in my opinion. TPU material has a rubber like properties that serves as a bumper that covers your phone’s vulnerable corners in case of a drop. Unlike hard plastic cases which do not effectively absorb shock and are likelier to translate the impact onto the device itself. TPU is resistant to impact and abrasion therefore it will provide a much better protection to your phone and remain scratch free.
Is TPU Filament Material Toxic?
Great features of TPU are it is completely odorless and non-toxic when printing and in fact it is even used in biomedical applications.
TPU Material Properties Table.
Property
Polyester-based TPU
Polyether-based TPU
Abrasion resistance
excellent
excellent
Mechanical properties
excellent
good
Low temperature flexibility
good
excellent
Heat aging
good
poor
Hydrolysis resistance
poor
excellent
Chemical resistance
excellent
acceptable
Microbial resistance
poor
excellent
Adhesion strength
good
poor
Injectability
good
good
TPU material properties table
Is TPU Same As Silicone?
Both TPU and silicone are polymer-based materials and used in multiple industries for their physical qualities and both materials are soft. Silicone and TPU are the best materials that we can use protect our mobile phones from breaking but are they that same material? TPU and Silicone are not the same materials. For example: TPU has the benefit of flexibility like silicone but the non-grip effect of the plastic. If you take into account that silicone lasts for about a month before it starts to stretch and starts falling off your cellphone, the TPU will last for about 2 years before showing signs of wear.
Thermoplastic urethane is usually melted and extruded, TPU has hydrogen, carbon, oxygen and nitrogen in its backbone. silicones are often cast as a thermoset that is cured to form a cross linked polymer. Silicone has carbon, hydrogen silicon and oxygen as it’s composition.
TPU are generally stronger than silicone of similar molecular weight
TPU is any of a class of polyurethane plastics with many properties, including elasticity, transparency, and resistance to oil, grease and abrasion. Technically, they are thermoplastic elastomers consisting of linear segmented block copolymers composed of hard and soft segments.
Silicone, also known as polysiloxanes, are polymers that include any inert, synthetic compound made up of repeating units of siloxane, which is a chain of alternating silicon atoms and oxygen atoms, combined with carbon, hydrogen, and sometimes other elements.
Conclusion
Now that we covered the basics of TPU go ahead and head on over to Downloads tab above and put that TPU slicer profile to use, feel free to download the CAD model of the phone case as well. Be sure to have your TPU filament completely dried out before printing. TPU filament absorbs moisture when sitting out for some time and then the results may not be so pleasant as it will string heavily and produce very rough texture surface.
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3D printing is a way of creating three dimensional (3D) solid objects. 3D printing is done by building up the object layer by layer from a digital file. Usually, 3D printers use plastic, because it is easier to use, cheaper, and faster. More details on this topic can be found on our other post here.
What can be 3d printed?
Virtually anything you can imagine (toys, mechanical components, gadgets, robotics, prototypes, casting masters.) 3D printing is a really cool technology that has more capabilities than traditional manufacturing processes and it is faster and cheaper when performed on a small scale. This makes 3d printing perfect for testing or displaying prototypes of any sort or just for a side hobby for someone looking to do something with their time.
How do 3d printers work?
There are about 9 different types of 3d printers and we will cover in detail two most popular by process types.
FDM
SLA
FDM – (Fused Deposition Modeling) is a 3d printing process that uses thermoplastic which is fed from the spool into a moving, computer controlled hot end nozzle. The hot end nozzle melts the thermoplastic known as filament and dispenses it onto a build plate as it is moving, Creating a solid structure layer by layer.
SLA – (Stereolithography or optical fabrication) is a 3d printing process that uses a light beam and resin. As the build plate moves up the light beam creates the chemical reaction in resin causing it to solidify into a solid object layer by layer.
FDM vs. SLA – FDM is a much faster, cheaper and cleaner process than SLA. SLA is usually used to 3d print smaller non functional objects. SLA is more precise than FDM and finished models are usually cleaner and more detailed than those created on FDM printers. SLA is the oldest form of 3d printing and the model is created upside down attaching to the build plate while the FDM builds model upwards and can easily achieve structure overhang of 45 degrees without need of support. FDM requires minimal if no clean up when the model is finished printing while SLA will require intense cleanup of the model and printer with harmful solvents and most resins are toxic and harmful. Must use extra caution when dealing with SLA printing.
Different types of 3d printers by process
FDM – Fused Deposition Modeling
SLA – Stereolithography or optical fabrication
SLS – Selective Laser Sintering
SLM – Selective Laser Melting
DLP – Digital Light Processing
EBM – Electron Beam Melting
LOM – Laminated Object Manufacturing
BJ – Binder Jetting
Wax Casting
3D printing process.
CAD model
Stl
Slice
Gcode
3d print
Product
Every product first starts with a design. There are many CAD software that will allow you to design the product that you wish to 3d print.
Top 3 Free CAD Modeling Software
Sketchup – Intermediate (No download required, Build it online)
Easy youTube search will guide you through any CAD software tutorial to help you get started in 3d modeling. If you wish to skip the CAD modeling maybe because you don’t want to get into it yet or just want to 3d print something quickly there are many online sites where you can download files 3d printer ready.
All 3 of these websites are platforms where anyone who has a 3d model can share their creation with the world. All files are free on Thingiverse and Cults and these are 3d printing specific sites therefore most of the download files will include instructions for 3d printer type and recommended 3d printer setting to achieve the best results with the minimal amount of effort.
What is 3d Print Slicing?
A 3d slicing is a process by which the slicing software converts the 3d CAD model from .stl file to a .gcode file that 3d printer will recognize and execute. During the slicing process the operator may change the setting of the 3d printing speed, layer height, add supports and more. When applying settings to slicer it is important to remember that different types of materials play a major role in a success of the finished product.
More information on 3d print slicing and prices can be found on our another post Here.
3D Printing Materials
It is quite obvious that required materials would be different for different types of 3d printers but as a beginner you should be aware of different types of materials within a specific type of 3d printer. 3D printing with different materials is probably the most challenging part of the 3d printing adventure.
Different types of 3D Printing materials for FDM Printer | Filaments
There are about 13 different types of filament for FDM printers available today and this number keeps expanding as more new materials are being developed constantly.
PLA – is the go-to material for most users due to its ease-of-use, dimensional accuracy, and low cost.
ABS – is a low-cost material, great for printing tough and durable parts that can withstand high temperatures.
TPU – is a flexible filament known for their elasticity allowing the material to easily stretch and bend.
PETG – is a filament known for their ease of printability, smooth surface finish, and water resistance.
Nylon – is a tough and semi-flexible material that offers high impact and abrasion resistance. It is an ideal choice for printing durable parts.
Polycarbonate – is known for its strength and durability. It has very high heat and impact resistance making it an ideal choice for tough environments.
Polypropylene – is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.
PVA – is commonly known for its ability to be dissolved in water and is often used as a support material for complex prints.
HIPS – is a lightweight material most commonly used as a dissolvable support structure for ABS models.
ASA – is a common alternative to ABS and is great for outdoor applications due to its high UV, temperature, and impact resistance.
Metal Filled – filaments are made by mixing a fine metal powder into a base material, providing a unique metallic finish and added weight.
Wood Filled – Wood filaments combine a PLA base material with cork, wood dust, or other derivatives, giving the models a real wooden look and feel.
Carbon Fiber Filled – Carbon fiber filaments contain short fibers that are infused into a PLA or ABS base material to help increase strength and stiffness.
Material Type
Price per 1Kg
Nozzle Temp.
Bed Temp.
Heat Bed Required
Print Difficulty 1-10 Hard
Durability 1-10
PLA
$10-$40
190-230°C
45-60°C
NO
1
ABS
$9-$40
220-250°C
95-110°C
YES
3
TPU (Flexible)
$18-$60
225-245°C
45-60°C
NO
5
PETG
$22-$80
230-250°C
75-90°C
YES
2
Nylon
$19-$60
220-270°C
70-90°C
YES
3
Polycarbonate
$18-$60
260-310°C
80-120°C
YES
4
Polypropylene
$19-$60
220-250°C
85-100°C
YES
7
PVA
$40-$110
185-200°C
45-60°C
YES
5
HIPS
$19-$30
230-245°C
100-115°C
YES
4
ASA
$38-$50
235-255°C
90-110°C
YES
2
Metal Filled
$50-$120
190-220°C
45-60°C
NO
3
Wood Filled
$25-$55
190-220°C
45-60°C
NO
2
Carbon Fiber Filled
$30-$80
200-230°C
45-60°C
NO
2
Material Type
Price per 1Kg
Nozzle Temp.
Bed Temp.
Heat Bed Required
Print Difficulty 1-10
Durability 1-10
Different types of 3D Printing materials for SLA Printer | Resins
There are about 6 different types of resins for SLA printers that we will cover in this post.
Standard – is the most commonly available resin type and can be used for non functional or display models at low cost and quality is OK.
Modeling – High detail and very expensive. Great choice to be used to create a model for a casting.
Water Washable – is very similar to the standard resin. Main difference is it does not require a solvent for cleaning up.
ABS Like – is more durable than standard resin, has a little flex to it, and is more difficult to work with. Can be used to print functional prototypes.
Eco / Bio – is less odor than most but still does require solvent to clean up.
Tough / Engineering – is expansive but the best choice if you wish to make functional parts.
If you found this post helpful please share with others and subscribe so you don’t miss out on my latest post. Please like, comment and share with us you 3d printing experience. Be sure to check out our download tab above for models and slicer profiles.
Happy 3d printing!
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Hello – Hello and Welcome, to Learn 3D Stuff!!
Here I am with over 10 years of experience in mechanical design and a little bit of experience with 3D printing. I am exited to share what I know and hopefully you will find some tips and tricks from my experience that will help you in your journey of life.
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