Posted on July 22, 2021July 22, 2021 by veekay1st — Leave a comment

Is It Worth It To Buy A 3D Printer? | Cost breakdown and Table

When you’re planning for any big purchase, you must look at all the factors that could influence the price. Until you know exactly how much it will cost you, you won’t know if the item is really worth it. 3D printers are taking off in popularity, but many people wonder if the benefits are really worth the price.

Entry-level 3D printers can be as cheap as $200-$500, but the better quality 3D printers for home use can be between $1,500-$10,000. Some materials can be found at $15-$20 per kg, whereas others can be $100-$200 per kg. Additionally, 3D printers are prone to needing repairs, which can be costly.

Considering all of the different expenses, benefits, and drawbacks, you can decide if buying a 3D printer is worth it for you. We’ll break down the cost of the machine and materials below to help you understand the price range you can expect.

Expected Expenses

The 3D Printer Itself

The least expensive 3D printers on the market are $200. Even though that might seem like a steal, it’s important to know that these printers need a lot of set-up work, have very few features, can typically only use one material, are limited in the size they can print (3-4″ in each dimension), print lower quality work, and break very frequently.

In most situations, if you want a 3D printer, you don’t actually want one that’s too cheap. You get what you pay for!

The next range of 3D printers is considered for “hobbyists.” These are anywhere between $300-$1,500. These printers still require quite a bit of set-up work, print lower quality work, and break easily. They improve upon the cheapest 3D printers in that they can print slightly larger sizes (5-6″ in each dimension) and can use a few different materials.

The following range of 3D printers is considered for “enthusiasts.” These printers can be found from $1,500-$3,500. With the price increase for this range, you get better-sized prints (8-12″ in each dimension), reasonable speed, good quality prints, and access to more materials (unless the printer only works with the manufacturer’s standard materials). Unfortunately, these printers still break easily. In general, if you plan to use it for more than 40 hours a month, you should expect to spend a significant amount of time repairing and maintaining the machine.

The most expensive home-use 3D printers are around $3,500-$10,000. For many people, this is simply out of their budget. However, these options do create much better quality work. These 3D printers are considered “professional” or “performance” printers. They have large and enclosed build areas which can print 12″ in each dimension.

Due to the area being enclosed, you have access to almost any material. That being said, the manufacturer for each printer should provide the list of materials that will print best from that printer. Since there is still a large margin in this range, note which printers can create the best quality for the speed and the printer’s durability. No matter what range you buy, 3D printers need repairs but some need much less than others.

Materials

There are two different kinds of materials used in most 3D printers: fused deposition modeling (FDM) and stereolithography (SLA). FDM uses thermoplastic filament whereas SLA uses photosensitive resin. Filament materials are the most common and least expensive of the two.

When considering the cost of each material, you will want to check the prices for specific colors, the quantity, and that specific product’s tolerance. Colored materials and tighter tolerances tend to be more expensive but buying large quantities can lower the price.

Type of Material	Average Cost	Pros	Cons
PLA (filament)	$15-$20 per kilogram	Very common Easy to print Inexpensive	Not the best quality material
ABS (filament)	$15-$20 per kilogram	Fairly common Does well with strength and temperature resistance Inexpensive	Requires a heated build plate
PETG (filament)	$16-$19 per kilogram	Easy to print Does well with strength and temperature resistance Inexpensive
Nylon (filament)	$50-$73 per kilogram	Relatively flexible Highly chemically resistant Builds decent functional parts	Expensive
TPU/TPE/Soft PLA (filament)	$87-$110 per kilogram	Flexible Builds decent rubber-like models	Expensive
Polycarbonate (non-standard filament)	$30–$93 per kilogram	Very strong High strength and durability Good electrical insulation properties	Optically transparent Most options are at the high end of the price range
ASA (filament)	$30–$93 per kilogram	UV resistant Moisture resistant Electrically insulating Good for outdoor applications	Can get expensive fairly quick
SLA (resin)	$40–$300 per liter	Very high resolution prints	Very expensive The price difference is determined by the resin quality and the printing resolution the resin is compatible with
Specialty Materials (filament)	$20-$600 per kilogram	Can contain additives such as wood, glitter, glow-in-the-dark features, carbon fiber, stainless steel, magnetic iron powder, and kilnable metal.	Depending on the additive, can be extremely expensive and hard to use

Benefits of 3D Printers

Can Potentially Save Time and Money

Depending on the printer’s capabilities, you could very well print items for less than what you would spend buying them. For example, certain printers excel at printing functional parts. If you needed to repair something around the house, you could make the part yourself instead of waiting for the item to be shipped and avoid unnecessary costs.

One reason many people enjoy 3D printers is the ability to make gifts. You can print figurines, signs, jewelry, parts for games, etc. Essentially, you can make whatever you want! This falls into the age-old practice of giving homemade gifts to save money, and by having a 3D printer you are upping your ability to make high-quality homemade gifts.

Additionally, if you are making items, you can sell them. Using an online platform to sell your prints is a great way to mitigate the expenses of a 3D printer. You can have specific items that you sell or you can open yourself up to receiving custom orders (people are willing to pay more for their own designs and ideas).

3D Printing Can Be More Environmentally Sustainable

Going back to the example of printing something you could have bought online, by doing this you will be reducing your personal environmental impact. Namely, you won’t be contributing to the fuel used in delivery and the single-use packaging used for your item. Plus, considering how many manufacturing and delivery steps can be taken on just one item before it gets to you, you could reduce even more emissions by simply making the item at home.

If being environmentally sustainable is important to you, you can also use specific 3D printing filaments that are made of waste plastics and/or environmentally friendly materials (hemp, seaweed, soy, wood fiber, etc.). You’ll be creating your own recycled and/or non-toxic products. Additionally, you can recycle your own filament that you use! These don’t work with every 3D printer, but it’s nice to know that the option exists.

Future-Proofing

3D printing is growing bigger and better each year. It is being used in hospitals, schools (high school and universities), manufacturing companies, and by engineers. As 3D printing spreads into new fields and the technology continues to advance, 3D printing can become a “new normal.” Regardless of how it grows, it is clear the 3D printing will expand in use and popularity.

In order to not fall behind, it could be a good idea for you to invest in a 3D printer now. This could mean getting one for the purpose of simply learning how it works and becoming skilled in those programs, which may become standard knowledge in the future. And who knows, maybe in the next decade it will become normal for each home to have a 3D printer. By purchasing one now, you will be ahead of the curve either way.

Drawbacks of 3D Printers

They Are Expensive!

As stated before, to get a good quality printer that genuinely benefits you, you will have to spend some serious cash. The 3D printers needed to create functional parts and marketable products are not cheap. The materials cost money as well, and you will need to keep buying more as you go.

Even though some of the materials seem pretty affordable, it is important to consider how much of each material you need to create an item. The materials (with the exception of resin) are measured in weight, so the density of a material affects the price of how much you need. Then, considering the different qualities of materials, you may need a more expensive material just because of what you are making. So essentially, it adds up.

You Need To Be Handy or Have The Money For Repairs

Going along with the high cost of using a 3D printer, you may need to factor in the cost of repairs. 3D printers break a lot (even the more expensive models). This means that you either need to be really good at repairing machines or be able to afford to fix the printer.

That being said, the severity of this issue does depend on the printer and how the printer breaks. Perhaps the repairs are easy and simple to do yourself. In that case, no worries. But if you need to replace parts or something is wrong with the system, repairs could be a burdensome thing.

You Need To Know The Programs

Unfortunately, 3D printing objects is not as easy as printing a piece of paper. Just like you need to know programs for designing pages to be printed, you need to know the programs for printing 3D models. Some of these programs are free, but like everything, the best options require payment.

That being said, there are pre-made 3D model plans that you can find/buy online but only using pre-made designs isn’t worth the cost of having your own 3D printer.

Miscellaneous

3D printers require ventilation. First, because certain materials emit very foul plastic odors. Some materials stink worse than others, but they all give off an odor. Second, 3D printers emit nondetectable nanoparticles. These particles could be breathed in and so far, there aren’t studies on how that can affect long-term health. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Most of the affordable 3D printer options do not have enclosed build areas. Meaning, the finicky moving parts and hot end are completely exposed. This first increases the risk of the 3D printer being damaged. Second, this becomes a danger if you have small children or pets. If a child or pet should stick their finger or nose into the build area, they could be burned or otherwise injured. Along with the harm this could cause, it could also break the printer.

Although this is only a small annoyance for most, 3D printing is also fairly loud. Depending on where you plan to keep your 3D printer, the noise could be problematic.

When Is It Worth It?

In summary, a 3D printer could very much be worth it for you if you have the money to spend, are handy with maintenance and repairs, have a lot of projects to use it for, want to be a little more environmentally sustainable, are planning for the future of technology, and/or want to sell your creations.

Additionally, it should not be overlooked that your desire is a factor. Are you really, really interested in design and building models? Do you love creating useful things? Are you passionate about some aspect of 3D printing? Do you want to be an inventor? If getting a 3D printer is important to you for any of these reasons, then buying one is probably going to be worth it to you.

When Is It Not Worth It?

If you aren’t sure you can afford a 3D printer, don’t rush into this decision. Like we said before, they will be around for a while and you can always get one later when it’s within your budget.

If you don’t know what you’re actually going to use it for or can only think of a couple of projects, then it’s probably not worth the money or hassle. If you don’t want to learn new programs, you shouldn’t get one. There is a learning curve for getting a 3D printer and you need to be fully invested in that learning to make the printer useful.

If you aren’t good with repairs and/or don’t want to worry about your machine breaking all the time, 3D printers probably aren’t for you in general. They do require a lot of work and that may make this purchase a burden rather than a benefit.

Posted on May 20, 2021June 1, 2021 by veekay1st — Leave a comment

What Is The Clicking Noise On My 3D Printer | Solved

When your gut feeling is telling you that something is not right, it probably isn’t and when your 3d printer is making the clicking noise it may be one of those times. But don’t let it spoil your print, with a simple adjustment this can be fixed and in this post I will show you exactly how to do it.

What is the clicking noise on my 3d printer?

The clicking noise that you hear coming from your FDM 3d printer is the drive gear slipping on the filament. When pressure builds up on the tension spring, it slips making the popping or clicking sound. There are several reasons why the drive gear may be slipping and here you will find out how to prevent it.

Why does the drive gear slip?

The most common reason for drive gear to slip on the filament is the clog in the hot end nozzle. While clog is the most common reason for the drive gear to slip on the filament it is not the only reason. It may also include hot end nozzle temperature setting, type of filament material, extrusion multiplier, or the speed of the filament feed.

Clogged hot end nozzle.

Let’s look at the clog in the hot end nozzle. Suppose you printing with a flexible material that is stretchy and sticky. It is recommended that the retraction setting be disabled or set to a very minimum. Because when the sticky material is pulled back into the nozzle it will leave the sticky residue on the walls of the hot end nozzle that will eventually create a clog.

If you did use the flexible material don’t let it worry you as there are few things you can do to help prevent the clogs. First you can try a cold pull.

Clearing the clog

The hot end nozzle is somewhat an upside down cone shape and when material is dispensed, it is melted and pushed thru a tiny hole. What you can do is compress the spring on the drive gear idler or disconnect the bowden tube at the hot end and push the filament into the heated hot end.

Push filament thru heated extruder to clear the clog then bull back quickly

See if any material comes out. Then, quickly pull the entire string of filament out of the hot end. You may notice at the tip of the filament where it was in the hot end residue of another filament. Next, use needle that was supplied with your 3d printer and push up the hot end nozzle thru the hole to clear any blockage.

Filament material coming out of the hot end nozzle

Repeat this process until blockage is cleared.

If still unable to clear the clog. It may be time for a new hot end nozzle tip.

Good Practice Tip

When using sticky or flexible materials often there is a cleaning filament that you can buy and run it thru the printer to clean out the nozzle. It is designed specifically for this reason. The blend of filament when it melts will stick to any material more that it does to the metal nozzle.

Temperature Settings

Maybe you didn’t use flexible material and the hot end nozzle still clogged. This may happen when the 3d printer has been sitting in the preheat for too long with material in the nozzle.

Any filament is a type of plastic. When plastic is heated it melts. But overheating it may result in a change of properties within a materials that will prevent it from melting again.

To clear the clog the above step can be applied for this case as well.

It is a good practice to pull back the filament out of the hot end when preheating the printer. Use caution when working around the hot contents.

What to do when you hear clicking noise:

This may not be the wisest suggestion but it works. This is what I do for a temporary fix. If you can catch it early enough where your print isn’t ruined yet and but printed so much where abandoning the print is not an option.

Before trying the method I will describe below first identify that the material is coming out of the hot end nozzle. This will determine that the temperature is set correctly and hot end nozzle is not clogged.

Temporary Fix

Try compressing and releasing the spring at the drive gear idler that feed the filament to release the build up pressure first. Then, override the extruder speed setting on your printer.

3d printer filament gear drive

From my personal experience lowering the extruder speed by 10% at the time makes it easier to calculate the extrusion multiplier in the slicer settings later. For example, if the speed of the extruder had to be reduces three times by 10% each time, then the total percent change is 30%.

Solution

Update the slicer profile for the filament that is being printed and reduce the extrusion multiplier by the number you calculated or 30% (from the above example).

Conclusion

Now you know what makes the clicking sound, where it is coming from and how to fix this problem. Hopefully my trial and errors will save you a whole lot of filament and a bunch of headache.

If you found this post helpful please share with others and subscribe so you don’t miss out on our latest post. Please like, comment and share with us you 3d printing experience.

Posted on May 12, 2021June 3, 2021 by veekay1st — 1 Comment

33 Types of 3D Printing Filament and How to Use Them

Having a 3d printer around a house is great and even better when you can get the most use out of it. To do so it is important to know something about all the different filament types, how to print them and the best uses for each of the filament. So, stay with us as we go over all the types of filament and who knows, you might actually learn something new today.

PLA Types of Filaments:

I will cover the PLA types of filament first as it is the #1 choice for most printing projects. PLA is a very common material for 3d printing among hobbyists. It is the cheapest, harmless, recyclable, and it comes in many different colors. PLA also is the easiest filament to work with. It sticks to nearly everything and does not require a headed bed.

PLA

PLA – is a polyester. The most widely used plastic filament material in 3D printing. It comes in many different colors. It is both recyclable and biodegradable in an industrial composter.

PLA is renewable as it is made from corn starch or sugar cane.

Because PLA solidifies at low temperature allows 3d printers with cooling fans do very aggressive maneuvers and build long bridges without the need for support.

The downside of PLA is that it softens at a very low temperature. So if the product is left for some time near a hot surface or inside a car out on hot sun it can potentially turn into a useless blob.

PLA+

PLA plus is sometimes referred to as PLA pro or Tough PLA. Basically it is the same PLA modified to be a bit tougher without going to a next up more expansive materials. This “plus” can include higher melting point and or impact resistant just to name a few. PLA plus is a few bucks pricier than regular PLA but still is cheaper than most other materials.

Keep in mind that if your are going to print with a PLA plus you may need to adjust your 3d printer profile to suit this particular filament. Always check the spool for a recommended temperature settings and compare that to a regular PLA that you are using. This will give you a good starting point to begin tuning the profile for PLA plus.

HT PLA (High-Temp)

High-Temp or HT PLA is a filament that can be 3d printed as a regular PLA. The main difference is that it allows you to heat treat it. So, print a part, throw it in the oven, and increase the melting point of the part by nearly 3 times from 50 deg. Celsius to about 160 deg. Celsius.

This is great for printing gadgets that will require to be exposed to heat like car accessories or anyplace that is hear heat. This stuff will never melt in the sunlight. Otherwise this is same as regular PLA but about 4 time more expansive.

Silk PLA

Silk PLA is a PLA with elastomer mixed in it. Parts printed in Silk PLA are as bright as a brushed metal straight out of the 3d printer. Silk PLA is much more brittle than standard PLA therefore it is great for 3d printing display models.

Silk PLA prints much like regular PLA but with elastomer in mixed it it you should watch out for aggressive retraction setting as this will clog up the nozzle and end up in a jam.

Rainbow PLA

Rainbow PLA is a same Silk PLA described above but instead of being one solid color this filament will have a mixture of colors on a same wire and will change colors every about 200 cm.

To get the maximum effect of a Rainbow PLA in you print it is best to print a very tall model like a vase or if you need an assortment of some sort you can print a bunch of small items.

Color Changing PLA

Color Changing PLA is a very cool filament that changes color when near heat or exposed to sunlight. It is printed as a regular PLA but if overheated it may not change colors anymore.

This is a great choice of filament for jewelry or decorations.

PLA Composites

PLA Composites is a PLA filament blend with metal / wood powders and fibers. Any Composites filaments are extremely abrasive and it is highly recommended to replace the stock 0.4 mm brass tip to a 0.5 mm hardened steel hot end nozzle.

Marble PLA

Marble PLA is a filament with a finished marble stone look when the part is finished. There a two types of marble PLA.

One is just a marble colored PLA and nothing more special.
Two is actually a blend of powder stone with PLA and this one will require a hardened steel nozzle.

Wood PLA

Wood PLA is a blend of PLA plastic and a real wood dust. This filament absorbs moisture like a sponge and needs to be kept in a dry box or dehydrator.

The really cool thing about wood PLA is that it 3d printed model can be sanded and stained. Better yet if printed with a larger layer height and not sanded the part may not look so pleasant but when wood stained it will give off an authentic wood feel and the layers look like real wood grains.

Give this one a try for a jewelry box

Glowing PLA

Glowing PLA is a composite PLA and will need a hardened steel nozzle as it is very abrasive. It is a PLA blend with glowing pigment powder that gives it a glow effect but also makes 3d printed models very rough on finish and very brittle.

When printing glowing PLA it is best to make the walls extra thick to maximize the glow effect and keep a close eye on printer as this filament clogs the nozzle like no other filaments.

Glowing PLA is one of the most difficult filaments to print and it’s best to keep the retraction setting off for this one.

Glitter PLA

Glitter PLA is a blend of PLA and glitter and it is fairly cheap. The glitter is usually not super fine and will require a wide nozzle. It is also on a difficult side to print and this filament stick to hot end and will require extensive cleaning after it is finished with.

To maximize the effect of glitter it is best to print thin walls and thick layer height.

Sparkly PLA

Sparkly PLA is a great alternative to glitter PLA. It can be printed just like a regular PLA. Sparkly PLA or Metallic PLA does not contain glitter but it is shiny do to a manufacturing plastic composite process.

To maximize the effect of shines it is best to print this with thick wall thickness and fine layer height.

Carbon Fiber PLA

Carbon Fiber PLA is a mixture of PLA and tiny carbon fibers for reinforcement. This filament is not much stronger than regular PLA. The advantage of CF PLA is the fibers assist the plastic during the building process and the prints come out looking much much better than the regular PLA. This also helps with dimensional accuracy as well as appearance.

CF PLA is very abrasive and hardened steel nozzle is a must because standard brass nozzle will get destroyed instantly.

It’s important to note that there are different types of carbon fiber PLA.

ground carbon fibers
- This will not increase any of the mechanical strength in the print but will give it a fine matte finish.
short chopped carbon fibers
- This will increase strength of the part and will need a hardened steel hot end nozzle.
long chopped carbon fibers
- This is the toughest but also most brittle and hardened steel hot end nozzle is a must with a wide opening.

High Temp Carbon Fiber PLA

HT-CF-PLA is a blend of high temperature PLA and Carbon Fiber. This is one of the most brittle filament on the list and will require a close attention when printing as it can snap and result in run-out print. It may be a great idea to equip your printer with a filament run-out sensor if it don’t already have one.

Models printed in HT CF PLA come out warped from the printer but amazingly when heat treated in the oven they go back to normal and fiber help to stabilize and reinforce the model and make it easier to heat treat.

Conductive PLA

Conductive PLA is a very interesting filament. No it will not replace the circuit board or wires but it does allow you to embed LED right in your print with no wires required. It is also great for phone accessories, touch censors, stylus and much more.

Conductive PLA is filled with black carbon. This makes it very brittle, difficult to print because parts like to warp, and even more difficult to clean out the nozzle after swapping to different filament.

For best practices when switching from conductive PLA move on to a black color filament because the black carbon will ruing the next print if printed in light color.

Metal PLA

Metal PLA is a 50/50 blend of metal and plastic. This filament can be printed at the lowest temperatures. It is not any stronger than regular PLA and is more brittle. Metal PLA can be buffed and polished for a shiny looks and rusted with vinegar peroxide salt solution for antique look.

For best results when buffing or polishing use high temperature metal PLA and then heat treat it. Also with any metal PLA hardened steel hot end nozzle is a must and it is recommended to use 0.5 mm tip or higher.

It’s good to note that metal is heavy and when buying a spool of 1 kg of filament you will actually get half as much of filament than you would when buying regular PLA. Filaments are sold by weight not length.

Iron PLA

Iron PLA is similar to metal PLA and does require a hardened steel nozzle. The unique properties about Iron PLA is that it is magnetic and can be rusted. Iron retains heat longer this makes it one of the lowest temperature printing filament.

Hot end temperature for Iron PLA should be about 180 deg Celsius, retraction low, and keep and eye out on it as it can melt in the heat-break and clog the nozzle.

Stainless Steel PLA

SS PLA is just like other Metal PLA. It is super heavy, requires a hardened hot end nozzle, can be polished to almost a reflective finish and will not rust nor it is magnetic.

Brass PLA

Brass PLA is a mix of brass (copper zinc) particles and PLA. Brass is very dense and has a high thermal mass. Models printed in Brass PLA are heavy and look cool.

Bronze PLA

Bronze PLA is a blend of PLA and Bronze alloy that makes these prints really cool especially when 3d printing “artifacts” because Bronze will oxidize and develop a cool greenish layer that will look like a real artifact or it can be polished if clean bronze look is desired. It is heavy so keep in mind about the length of filament on the spool when making a purchase.

Copper PLA

Copper PLA is a blend of copper and PLA. It is very dense and heavy. Copper PLA takes brushing, buffing, and polishing particularly well and if you add a touch of oil or black paint it will look absolutely stunning.

PETG

PETG is cheap and easy to print. It is recyclable and you can glue, weld, and machine it. The biggest downside is that PETG Saggs during 3d printing so long bridges and overhangs are nearly impossible and support material is hard to break away.

For best practice design models in a way where it doesn’t have any overhangs nor it would require support material. PETG is an awesome general-purpose filament for functional mechanical prints that have to get some beating.

T-Glaze Filament

T-Glaze filament is one of the most transparent filaments around. T-Glaze is a specially formulated blend of PETG to make clear watertight prints. Print this at higher temperature than the regular PETG and it’s designed to go directly on the glass bed to make the bottom layer crystal clear.

For best results, on the first layer turn the fan all the way down or off and turn the multiplier up, slow down speed and lay out thickest lines the nozzle can handle similar to lines of the raft.

HIPS

Hips (high-impact polystyrene) is one tough material that handles impacts like no other material. It’s fairly inexpensive and often used in multi material printers to make dissolvable supports for abs.

HIPS printing filament it’s super light and it has exceptional layer adhesion to the point of being watertight. Enclosures are recommended since even a minor draft will spoil the print and it only sticks the kapton tape.

Hips handle overhangs really well and because it flexes without creasing it makes a really good choice for living hinges.

ABS

ABS is one of the most commonly discussed filaments. There are many products made from ABS like legos. But in 3d printing ABS has issues. It is difficult to print, models warp, wont stick to the print bed, and to top it off it gives off toxic gasses when heated. If you need something printed from ABS consider using it’s alternative ASA.

ASA

ASA is basically all the properties of ABS but is 3d printer friendly. It prints easy, models look great, but it is toxic like ABS and will require an enclosure with ventilation when printing.

Purge Filament

Purge filament is a special type of filament designed specifically for purging. It melts at 190 and burns at 270 deg Celsius. It is ideal when switching from high temp filament to low temp filament to run purge filament in between. Because when loading low temperature filament high temp. filament that remained in the nozzle can solidify and cause a jam.

Cleaning Filament

Cleaning filament is also a special purpose filament. It is designed in a way to stick to all other materials more than the residue of the all other materials to the hot end nozzle and it pull off any residues as it is dispensed thru the nozzle.

Cleaning filament however can not clear blockages in the nozzle but is great to run after using flexible or sticky filaments.

TPE Flexible Filament

TPE is a thermoplastic elastomer better known as NinjaFlex is one of the most difficult filaments to print because of its properties of stretch and flex that make TPE so amazingly unique.

The challenge with TPE is to maintain the correct pressure in the hot end. Too little pressure and nothing comes out too much pressure and it will windup itself around the drive gears.

It is best to use TPE with the direct drive FDM 3d printer alltho it is possible to print on a bowden tube printer but extremely difficult.

TPU Flexible Filament

TPU is a thermoplastic polyurethane that has unique properties that allow it to spring, flex, and it is also a really tough filament. Because it is soft and flexible makes it very difficult to print with a bowden tube but not impossible.

TPU absorbs moisture like a sponge and will string intensively when moist and the finished product will not appear smooth but rather a bit spongy if filament was not dried.

When printing larger objects with TPU it will warp and curl up on the corners. The best way to fix that I found is a fine layer of glue stick on the print bed where the object will print and when 3d model finished printing. Just wash it with soap and water to get the dried up glue off the model.

TPU is famous for 3d printing phone cases and you can find models for download along with a TPU profile that I use for 3d printing TPU with bowden tube on the download tab above.

Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus 3D Printed Flexible TPU Phone Case

Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus Phone Case 3D Printed in TPU

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate (PC) is the best engineering plastic. It’s got all the strength and qualities for a perfect prototype. Pure PC requires very hot temperatures to print. Hot end nozzle is recommended up to 275 deg Celsius, bed temperature at 110 deg Celsius, and possibly a heated enclosure.

The more common Polycarbonate for 3d printing are alloys. It is a blend of PC and other materials to make the 3d printer more friendly and easier to print.

Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate

Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate – CF-PC is a filament infused with chopped carbon fibers. Similar to a Carbon Fiber PLA, fiber in the semi-flexible polycarbonate help to stabilize the plastic making the final results as stiff as a rock.

Carbon Fibers also help with printing better bridges and overhangs. CF-PC is more manageable to print that PC and is a great choice for engineering prototypes and toys like drones. It is abrasion resistant and handle heat very well.

Nylon

Nylon is a really common material for high-end professional prototyping. Nylon is a little flexible, extremely tough, handles abrasion very well, and super easy to post process. Nylon requires a heated bed, enclosure, and dry-box.

Conclusion

Hopefully this really long list of different types of filament materials helped you better understand what materials you may need for the upcoming project and what to expect from it.

If you found this post helpful please share with others and subscribe so you don’t miss out on our latest post. Please like, comment and share with us you 3d printing experience.

Posted on April 20, 2021June 2, 2021 by veekay1st — Leave a comment

Beginner Guide to 3D Printing | All Questions Answered

What is 3d printing?

3D printing is a way of creating three dimensional (3D) solid objects. 3D printing is done by building up the object layer by layer from a digital file. Usually, 3D printers use plastic, because it is easier to use, cheaper, and faster. More details on this topic can be found on our other post here.

What can be 3d printed?

Virtually anything you can imagine (toys, mechanical components, gadgets, robotics, prototypes, casting masters.) 3D printing is a really cool technology that has more capabilities than traditional manufacturing processes and it is faster and cheaper when performed on a small scale. This makes 3d printing perfect for testing or displaying prototypes of any sort or just for a side hobby for someone looking to do something with their time.

How do 3d printers work?

There are about 9 different types of 3d printers and we will cover in detail two most popular by process types.

FDM – (Fused Deposition Modeling) is a 3d printing process that uses thermoplastic which is fed from the spool into a moving, computer controlled hot end nozzle. The hot end nozzle melts the thermoplastic known as filament and dispenses it onto a build plate as it is moving, Creating a solid structure layer by layer.

SLA – (Stereolithography or optical fabrication) is a 3d printing process that uses a light beam and resin. As the build plate moves up the light beam creates the chemical reaction in resin causing it to solidify into a solid object layer by layer.

FDM vs. SLA – FDM is a much faster, cheaper and cleaner process than SLA. SLA is usually used to 3d print smaller non functional objects. SLA is more precise than FDM and finished models are usually cleaner and more detailed than those created on FDM printers. SLA is the oldest form of 3d printing and the model is created upside down attaching to the build plate while the FDM builds model upwards and can easily achieve structure overhang of 45 degrees without need of support. FDM requires minimal if no clean up when the model is finished printing while SLA will require intense cleanup of the model and printer with harmful solvents and most resins are toxic and harmful. Must use extra caution when dealing with SLA printing.

Different types of 3d printers by process

FDM – Fused Deposition Modeling
SLA – Stereolithography or optical fabrication
SLS – Selective Laser Sintering
SLM – Selective Laser Melting
DLP – Digital Light Processing
EBM – Electron Beam Melting
LOM – Laminated Object Manufacturing
BJ – Binder Jetting
Wax Casting

3D printing process.

CAD model
Stl
Slice
Gcode
3d print
Product

Every product first starts with a design. There are many CAD software that will allow you to design the product that you wish to 3d print.

Top 3 Free CAD Modeling Software

Sketchup – Intermediate (No download required, Build it online)
3D Builder – Beginner
FreeCAD – Intermediate

Easy youTube search will guide you through any CAD software tutorial to help you get started in 3d modeling. If you wish to skip the CAD modeling maybe because you don’t want to get into it yet or just want to 3d print something quickly there are many online sites where you can download files 3d printer ready.

Top 3 Free CAD Model sites for 3D Printing

All 3 of these websites are platforms where anyone who has a 3d model can share their creation with the world. All files are free on Thingiverse and Cults and these are 3d printing specific sites therefore most of the download files will include instructions for 3d printer type and recommended 3d printer setting to achieve the best results with the minimal amount of effort.

What is 3d Print Slicing?

A 3d slicing is a process by which the slicing software converts the 3d CAD model from .stl file to a .gcode file that 3d printer will recognize and execute. During the slicing process the operator may change the setting of the 3d printing speed, layer height, add supports and more. When applying settings to slicer it is important to remember that different types of materials play a major role in a success of the finished product.

More information on 3d print slicing and prices can be found on our another post Here.

3D Printing Materials

It is quite obvious that required materials would be different for different types of 3d printers but as a beginner you should be aware of different types of materials within a specific type of 3d printer. 3D printing with different materials is probably the most challenging part of the 3d printing adventure.

Different types of 3D Printing materials for FDM Printer | Filaments

There are about 13 different types of filament for FDM printers available today and this number keeps expanding as more new materials are being developed constantly.

PLA – is the go-to material for most users due to its ease-of-use, dimensional accuracy, and low cost.
ABS – is a low-cost material, great for printing tough and durable parts that can withstand high temperatures.
TPU – is a flexible filament known for their elasticity allowing the material to easily stretch and bend.
PETG – is a filament known for their ease of printability, smooth surface finish, and water resistance.
Nylon – is a tough and semi-flexible material that offers high impact and abrasion resistance. It is an ideal choice for printing durable parts.
Polycarbonate – is known for its strength and durability. It has very high heat and impact resistance making it an ideal choice for tough environments.
Polypropylene – is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.
PVA – is commonly known for its ability to be dissolved in water and is often used as a support material for complex prints.
HIPS – is a lightweight material most commonly used as a dissolvable support structure for ABS models.
ASA – is a common alternative to ABS and is great for outdoor applications due to its high UV, temperature, and impact resistance.
Metal Filled – filaments are made by mixing a fine metal powder into a base material, providing a unique metallic finish and added weight.
Wood Filled – Wood filaments combine a PLA base material with cork, wood dust, or other derivatives, giving the models a real wooden look and feel.
Carbon Fiber Filled – Carbon fiber filaments contain short fibers that are infused into a PLA or ABS base material to help increase strength and stiffness.

Material Type	Price per 1Kg	Nozzle Temp.	Bed Temp.	Heat Bed Required	Print Difficulty 1-10 Hard	Durability 1-10
PLA	$10-$40	190-230°C	45-60°C	NO	1
ABS	$9-$40	220-250°C	95-110°C	YES	3
TPU (Flexible)	$18-$60	225-245°C	45-60°C	NO	5
PETG	$22-$80	230-250°C	75-90°C	YES	2
Nylon	$19-$60	220-270°C	70-90°C	YES	3
Polycarbonate	$18-$60	260-310°C	80-120°C	YES	4
Polypropylene	$19-$60	220-250°C	85-100°C	YES	7
PVA	$40-$110	185-200°C	45-60°C	YES	5
HIPS	$19-$30	230-245°C	100-115°C	YES	4
ASA	$38-$50	235-255°C	90-110°C	YES	2
Metal Filled	$50-$120	190-220°C	45-60°C	NO	3
Wood Filled	$25-$55	190-220°C	45-60°C	NO	2
Carbon Fiber Filled	$30-$80	200-230°C	45-60°C	NO	2
Material Type	Price per 1Kg	Nozzle Temp.	Bed Temp.	Heat Bed Required	Print Difficulty 1-10	Durability 1-10

Different types of 3D Printing materials for SLA Printer | Resins

There are about 6 different types of resins for SLA printers that we will cover in this post.

Standard – is the most commonly available resin type and can be used for non functional or display models at low cost and quality is OK.
Modeling – High detail and very expensive. Great choice to be used to create a model for a casting.
Water Washable – is very similar to the standard resin. Main difference is it does not require a solvent for cleaning up.
ABS Like – is more durable than standard resin, has a little flex to it, and is more difficult to work with. Can be used to print functional prototypes.
Eco / Bio – is less odor than most but still does require solvent to clean up.
Tough / Engineering – is expansive but the best choice if you wish to make functional parts.

If you found this post helpful please share with others and subscribe so you don’t miss out on my latest post. Please like, comment and share with us you 3d printing experience. Be sure to check out our download tab above for models and slicer profiles.

Happy 3d printing!

Posted on April 14, 2021June 2, 2021 by veekay1st — 1 Comment

10 Things To Know Before Starting 3D Printing | Tips for Beginner

Cost of 3D printing
Is 3d printing difficult for beginner
Print on glass… or any good bed
Bed leveling & The perfect first layer
Materials matter
Slicing Matters
Print profiles
Rafts, Brims & Skirts
Understanding support
Keep an eye on things

3D Printing is a rapidly growing industry that attracts many enthusiasts and with 3d printers becoming more affordable today than ever before. More and more people are getting into this new 3d printing adventure but many beginners do not realize what it actually takes to get into and then continue the new hobby.

Unlike the “printing” that we use to print paper, 3d printing is much more involved and requires more than just a click of a “Print” button. I want to share with you my experience of what I wish I knew before I got started in 3D printing.

#1. Cost of 3D Printing

As for everyone about everything, cost plays a great role when making decisions to make a new purchase and with 3D printers buying more expensive 3d printer does not necessarily mean buying a better 3d printer. We talk more about this in another post that you can check out HERE.

How much does a 3d printer cost?

3d printers’ typical price range for a beginner is starting at under $200 – $1000 for an average desktop 3d printer that is very much capable. Most beginners start out with a budget friendly Creality brand at around $200. 3D printers price can run up to over several thousand or even tens of thousands of dollars for more industrial 3d printers.

Different Types of 3D Printers

There are different types of 3d printers that need to be taken into consideration. The most popular among beginners of 3d printing is the FDM plastic printers. Then there are also resin SLA printers and metal 3d printers are starting to show on market. More details on different types of 3d printers can be found HERE.

After you have found the 3d printer of your choice and made a decision on the purchase. Keep in mind that the cost of the printer is not the only expense you are gonna make to keep on printing. You may have spent around $200 on a budget 3d printer but after setting it up you will be ready to start printing and for that you will need printing material.

Cost of Filament for FDM 3D Printers

Filament is a hidden cost of 3d printing that many beginners are unaware of. There are many filament material types as well as brands and each one carries its own price tag. Price on filament varies from cheap PLA 1 Kg from under $10 to more expensive PETG of over $100. The Vast majority of filament fall right around $25 a spool of 1Kg.

3D Printer Upgrades

After setting up and tinkering with a new 3d printer you will get more comfortable using it and have a better understanding of how things work. You would want to put more life and personality to your 3d printer leading a way for 3d printer upgrades.

Opportunities are endless when looking to upgrade and personalize your 3d printer. It can go anywhere from downloading from online sources and 3d printing fixtures for your printer to upgrading internal electronic components and software and it all comes at cost. More often than not the cost associated with these upgrades are overlooked.

#2. Is 3D Printing Difficult for Beginner

Short answer is YES. While most 3d printers come ready to print within minutes of setting up with no experience in 3d printing needed. 3D printing can be difficult even if you are not a beginner. But don’t let it stop you from getting into an exciting journey of 3d printing. Thankfully, we have internet and with the popularity of 3d printers there are many groups and communities with many talented like minded people who are willing to help you along the way.

Things to consider before getting started with 3d printing.

Be aware of different software
- CAD Modeling software if you want to make your own models or manipulate models that can be downloaded from free online sites like most popular Thingiverse, GrabCAD, Thangs and many more.
Different types of slicing software
- 3D printer Slicer software is what converts the 3d model into a gcode that 3d printers can recognize and execute by following commands of that gcode.
- There are both free and paid versions of slicer software you can download. With Cura being the most popular and free slicer among 3d printer users.
Different types of filament behave differently when printed
- This will require adjusting settings in slicer which can later be saved as a profile under a specific name for future use. This file type is known as fff and while the profiles are slicer specific the setting on many of them are the same. Check out our library tab above for free profiles and 3d models.
Not every 3d print will turn out perfect. Some tuning may need to be done along the way.
Be aware that 3d printing is a slow process and takes a lot of time but as technology evolves 3d printers are becoming much better in quality, more user friendly, and of course faster.

#3. 3D Printing Surface Matters

Every 3d printer comes with a printing surface but not all 3d printing surfaces are the same and the quality of 3d printed models can be drastically improved by having the right type of 3d printing surface.

There are many 3d printing surfaces available but here we will cover only a few.

Magnetic flexible 3d printing surface
Glass or mirror

Most 3d printers today come with either one of the above described printing surfaces and there are benefits in each.

Magnetic flexible 3d printing surface is great as it is fairly cheap and is easy to remove part from when they are done printing. Also, there are no worries about securing the printing surface to the build plate as it is magnetic. To remove models simply remove the magnetic flexible surface with a 3d printed model still on it. Then bend the printing surface and peel off the model. The downside however is that the 3d printed models come off too easy and sometimes do not stick to the surface and corners lift up or model warps. More information on that can be found on our other post Here.

Another thing to watch out for is the flexible magnetic sheet is not very durable and can get damaged by the hot end nozzle if the height is not adjusted properly and if the 3d printed model stick to surface too well it can be challenging to remove it from sheet resulting is a torn surface that will make printing future models difficult.

Glass or Mirror is a perfect printing surface as it heats up evenly and retains heat better than the thin magnetic removable sheet and the surface finish of the 3d printed object coming off is very smooth and glossy almost like glass. The downside is that it could be more difficult sometimes to remove the parts from the glass surface as it is not flexible and material sticks better to it.

#4. Bed Leveling and Perfect First Layer

With that said, it brings us to the most important part of 3d printing, bed leveling and perfect first layer. The success of any 3d printed model depends on the perfect first layer as it is the foundation of the entire 3d printed model structure.

What is bed leveling on a 3d printer?

Bed leveling is a distance of the hot end nozzle away from the bed on any portion of the bed. On a perfectly leveled bed the distance between the hot end nozzle and the bed would be equal in the center of the bed and all four corners of the bed.

All 3d printers have some sort of bed leveling feature. Some have automatic bed leveling features and for some you can install an upgrade to have an automatic leveling sensor. Regardless of the type of leveling feature your 3d printed may have automatic or manual it is absolutely crucial to have the bed perfectly leveled before starting the printing process.

How do you level the bed on a 3d printer?

First you want to bring the nozzle down in the middle of a bed for a starting point.
Get a piece of paper and slide it between the bed and the nozzle.
Adjust your bed up while moving the piece of paper back and forth until you feel slight resistance on the paper. Be careful not to crash the nozzle into the bed.
Then, repeat this process around all four corners of the bed.

Here is a helpful video that I have found.

Credit to Hobby Hoarder

After the bed is perfectly leveled you are now ready to start printing but the first layer still may not be the most desirable results.

How to get a perfect first layer 3d printing?

The printing surface may be perfectly leveled to the hot end and still be too close or too far from the hot end. This little detail may ruin your 3d print right from the start. So how do you know the difference? I found this video that does a great job explaining the distance between hot end to the bed and how to identify the difference.

Credit to NWA3D Training and Support

#5. 3D Printing Material Matters

When I first started 3d printing I went through a lot of filament pretty quickly trying to learn the ropes and figure things out. One major thing that I wish I knew before I started 3d printing is that not all material is the same.

While this may seem obvious, printing a typical PLA is a whole lot different than printing ABS or PETG or TPU. This was something that I was expecting. What I did not expect was when printing the same type of material for example PLA but switching brands makes a difference as well. So, a tip for a beginner is find a brand and stick to it and if you wish to change brand be prepared to make some adjustments to your printing profile. More on that later.

#6. Slicing Matters

What is slicing in 3d printing?

When the term “slicing” your 3D model is used it means taking your 3d model design and slicing it into many individual horizontal layers. The slicing software then generates the tool path usually referred to as (. gcode) that the 3d printer will use for printing. Most slicing software will have a print preview of the toolpath to help you prevent print failures.

Slicing Software and pricing:

We will start with the most popular choice Cura and it is available for free or if you want the enterprise version its $300 per year subscription.
Then we have a Simplify3d at $150 one time charge. This is our preferred choice of slice.
And we also have a list of free slicers

Every 3d printer and every slicer software is different and it all comes into play of the quality results of the finished product. Every slicer generates its own gcode that determines how the printer is going to print it and not every slicer will be a perfect match to your particular 3d printer. We suggest you start off with the free versions and try those out first before spending money on something that may not suit you well.

We have had great success using Simplify3d on ender 3 pro and it is very beginner friendly.

#7. 3D Print Slicing Profile

What is a slicing profile?

A 3d print slicing profile is a file (.fff) that stores a group of settings that are used to determine the (.gcode) such as speed and temperatures. Profiles can be modified and saved as with another name for different filament materials types. Slicing softwares like Simplify3d allows you to store up to 100 profiles. Free Simplify3d profiles available at our library tab.

The benefit of using slicer profiles is that you don’t have to go back and adjust all the settings every time you print or change to different material. Just select a new profile and print. Another benefit is that you can make a backup of a settings in a profile for something that works but you want to make some adjustments and not lose the setting you had that work ok.

#8. Rafts, Brims & Skirts-

What is Raft?

A Raft in 3d printing is a several layers of material that is printed underneath a 3d printed model that forms a detachable base. A 3D printed model will be printed on top of this raft, instead of directly on the build plate. Rafts are often used to prevent part warping and corners peeling as it usually has a better adhesion to build plate.

What is Brim?

A 3D printing brim is a layer of material that extends along the print bed from the edges of a 3D printed model. Brims help to improve bed adhesion and to prevent warping. Brim is extremely helpful when printing a tall and skinny model brim will help to stabilize it on the build plate to prevent it from collapsing. It is easy to remove, wastes less material than raft and doesn’t affect the bottom layer finish of the print.

What is Skirt?

A skirt in 3d printing is a number of lines that outline your to be printed 3d model but does not touch the model. The skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament. It also allows you to identify if the build plate is properly leveled which may prevent failure of 3d print.

All of these settings can be turned on and off or modified in a slicer settings normally in the “additional” tab.

#9. Understanding Supports

What are 3d printing supports?

A support material in 3d printing is a break away or dissolvable extra material that is printed on or by the 3d printed model that supports the model. For example if the model is a T shape then the overhang portion of the T will not be able to print successfully therefore it will require a support material. It is ideal to design 3d printed parts in a way to avoid using supports if at all possible.

Do you need to use supports in your 3d prints?

Supports are not always needed to be used and should be avoided when possible as it is extra material used that is disposed of when the product is finished printing. It makes printing time longer and waste more printing material. Support materials do not always break away from the model easily and sometimes may require some cleaning up or sanding after to achieve desired results.

Most slicer softwares will allow you to disable all supports in general and let you add a specified area of where you may want to add support material. This may save on print time and filament use if executed correctly. This video that I found does a great job explaining this.

Credit to makers muse

Can supports be avoided?

Yes, for the most part the support materials can and should be avoided. When designing a model for 3d printing it’s important to keep in mind that a 3d printer has its limitations and design model in a way to avoid a need for support. You can download a guide from thingiverse that you can print and it will show you capabilities of your 3d printer which will guide you with your model design. For example use chamfers and gussets to avoid overhang.

#10. Keep an eye on things

When you are first getting started with a new 3d printer I believe it is important to keep an eye on things. Do not leave your 3d printer printing for a long period of time unattended. I know this is impossible as I myself have done print that was over 30 hrs long. Things can get out of hand very quickly resulting in a failed print and a lot of wasted material to be cleaned up.

Most 3d printers now have a pause feature that you can use if you must leave the machine for a long period of time and do not wish to have your model destroyed. I would highly recommend that you utilize this feature at least until you find out the capabilities of your machine to feel compatible leaving it running unattended. Most of my print I do now I set the printer to run overnight.

Hobby,

Whatever your intentions are with 3d printing just remember to treat it as a hobby at least in the beginning stages of it. It is very much fun and exciting but can be frustrating sometimes. Nevertheless there are many communities that will help you along the way. Facebook groups, forums, and our blog is always there for you.

If you found this content helpful please share with others and subscribe so you don’t miss out on our latest post. Please like, comment and share with us your 3d printing experience. Be sure to check out our download tab above for models and slicer profiles.

Happy 3d printing!